How to Lay Artificial Grass?

Artificial grass has become one of the UK's most popular garden upgrades, and for good reason. No mowing, no watering, and a consistently green lawn regardless of the weather.

Table of contents

1. Choosing Your Artificial Grass
2. What You'll Need
3. Preparing the Ground
4. Laying the Sub-Base
5. Installing the Weed Membrane
6. How to Lay Artificial Grass: Step by Step
7. Joining Sections and Fixing Edges
8. Kiln Sand Dressing and Finishing
9. Artificial Grass on Concrete or Decking
10. DIY vs Professional Installation
11. How to Find a Landscaper
12. FAQs: Laying Artificial Grass

The base preparation section is where most DIY installations go wrong, it's worth reading that before anything else, even before choosing your grass.

Choosing Your Artificial Grass

Before you start preparing the ground, you need to have your grass selected and measured.

The type of grass affects the sub-base specification, and the amount you need to order must account for wastage from trimming and pattern matching.

Pile Height

The length of the synthetic fibres, typically ranging from 20mm to 40mm. Shorter piles (20–25mm) are more durable and better for areas with heavy foot traffic, pets, children, garden furniture.

Longer piles (35–40mm) look more natural and lush but flatten faster under regular use and take more maintenance to keep upright.

Blade Shape

C-shaped or S-shaped blades spring back better than flat blades and look more natural. Premium products mix different blade types and shades of green to replicate the variation of natural grass.

UV Stabilisation

Essential for any exposed garden. Non-UV-stabilised grass fades and becomes brittle within a few years in south-facing positions. It's a false economy to save money on a cheaper grade that visibly degrades in two to three years.

Measure accurately before ordering. Lay the grass in the same direction (running away from the house if there's one direction), and account for any irregular shapes that require trimming waste. For gardens with complex shapes, add 10–15% to your calculated area for wastage.

See the MyBuilder artificial grass cost guide for typical supply and installation prices to help you compare DIY supply-only costs with professional installation quotes.

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What You'll Need

Getting all materials and tools together before you start makes the installation significantly faster. The base preparation is labour-intensive and disrupts access to the garden, having everything on site from the start means you can work through it in sequence without stopping.

Materials:

• Artificial grass - measured with wastage allowance
• MOT Type 1 crushed aggregate (sub-base) - typically 75–100mm depth
• Sharp sand or granite dust (laying course) - 15–25mm depth
• Weed membrane - geotextile, not the thin domestic kind
• U-pins or ground staples - for securing the membrane
• Joining tape (if laying multiple strips) and adhesive
• Kiln-dried sand (infill dressing) - approximately 4-6kg per m²
• Bender board, timber, or aluminium edging - for perimeter containment

Tools:

• Spade and rake for excavation
• Plate compactor (wacker plate) - hire from a tool hire company
• Straight edge and spirit level
• Stanley knife or sharp utility knife (for cutting the grass)
• Stiff-bristle brush or lawn power brush (for the final infill)
• Tape measure and chalk line

Preparing the Ground

Ground preparation is the most labour-intensive stage and the one that most determines the final result.

This is where professional installation tends to outperform DIY, not because the skills involved are beyond most people, but because the physical work is genuinely hard and the temptation to cut corners on depth or compaction is real.

Step 1: Mark out the area.

Define the installation area precisely. For an irregular shape, use a garden hose or spray paint to mark the outline and work from that.

Step 2: Remove existing turf and topsoil.

Excavate to a depth of 75–100mm below the finished surface level you want to achieve. This accounts for the sub-base, the laying course, and the grass itself. All organic material, turf, roots, topsoil, must be removed.

Leaving organic matter beneath the base causes the surface to sink as it decomposes. For an average garden, this generates significant spoil, factor in skip hire or a grab lorry. See the MyBuilder garden clearance cost guide for disposal cost context.

Step 3: Check drainage.

Artificial grass relies on the sub-base for drainage - it drains through the permeable backing and through the aggregate beneath.

If the garden has poor natural drainage (clay soil, high water table, low spots that pool), you need to address this now. A French drain or soakaway positioned before the sub-base is laid prevents the drainage problems that are almost impossible to fix after installation.

Laying the Sub-Base

The sub-base is the structural foundation of the artificial grass installation. Getting this right is what separates a lawn that stays level, drains properly, and doesn't sink for fifteen years from one that develops problems within the first winter.

MOT Type 1 (crushed limestone or granite aggregate) is the standard material. It's angular in shape, which locks together under compaction to create a stable, permeable base. Do not use building sand or topsoil as a sub-base - neither compacts to the required stability.

• Step 1: Spread the MOT Type 1 aggregate to a depth of approximately 75mm. For a domestic garden, this is enough to achieve the required stability. Areas that will take vehicle weight (driveways) need deeper compaction to 100–150mm.

• Step 2: Compact with a plate compactor. Multiple passes are needed - typically three to four passes to achieve full compaction. Do not skip this step or attempt it by hand. An uncompacted sub-base will settle unevenly once the garden is in use, creating dips and humps that show through the finished surface.

• Step 3: Spread 15–25mm of sharp sand or granite dust over the compacted sub-base. This creates a smooth, level laying course for the membrane and grass. Level it carefully with a long straight edge, checking with a spirit level. This is the last chance to correct any unevenness before the grass goes down.

Note: The finished sub-base surface should slope very slightly away from any buildings, a fall of around 1:80 is sufficient to direct surface water away from foundations. Check this before the membrane goes down.

Installing the Weed Membrane

The weed membrane sits between the sub-base and the artificial grass and performs two functions: it prevents weeds from pushing up through the base, and it stabilises the fine particles in the laying course so they don't migrate into the aggregate below.

Use a geotextile weed membrane rather than the thin polythene sheeting sold for domestic use. Geotextile is permeable (water drains through it) while polythene traps water and creates exactly the drainage problems you're trying to avoid.

Roll the membrane out across the prepared sub-base, overlapping sections by at least 100mm at any joins. Secure it around the perimeter and at joins using galvanised U-pins or ground staples every 500–750mm. Where the membrane meets the edge of the installation, fold it up slightly rather than cutting it flush, you'll trim it once the grass is in position.

How to Lay Artificial Grass: Step by Step

With the base prepared and the membrane secured, you're ready to lay the grass itself. Work from the longest, straightest edge, typically the house wall or a fence line, and lay the grass running away from the house.

Step 1: Roll out and position the grass.

Roll out the grass over the membrane. Allow it to settle for at least thirty minutes before cutting, the material relaxes slightly and any manufacturing curves ease out. Don't pull or stretch it into position.

Step 2: Check the pile direction.

All sections of grass must run in the same direction, the pile direction is the way the blades lean. Run your hand along the grass: the direction that feels smooth is the pile direction, and this should face towards the primary viewpoint (usually the house). Grass with the pile running in different directions will show visible seam lines and look patchy.

Step 3: Cut to size.

Cut from the back of the grass, not the face. Use a sharp Stanley knife along a straight edge. Cutting from the face damages the fibres at the cut line; cutting from the back gives a clean edge.

Take time on this step, artificial grass has no margin for error in the way natural grass does. Measure twice, cut once.

Step 4: Leave a small gap at hard boundaries.

Where the grass meets walls, edging, or paving, leave a 10-15mm gap rather than cutting it absolutely flush. The grass will settle and compress slightly, and a small gap can be filled with kiln sand. Cutting exactly flush often results in the edge lifting or looking tight and unnatural.

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Joining Sections and Fixing Edges

For gardens larger than a single roll width, joins are unavoidable. Invisible joins are the most technically demanding part of the installation, poorly executed seams are the most common visible defect in DIY artificial grass installations.

Joining two sections:

Position the sections so the pile direction is consistent and the cuts butt up together without overlap. Fold both edges back approximately 300mm, apply joining tape (double-sided) to the membrane along the seam line, fold the edges back down onto the tape, and press firmly. For high-traffic seams or areas with heavy footfall, use adhesive in addition to tape.

Before pressing the seams down permanently, stand back and look at the join from the viewing angle. Any alignment or pile direction issues need correcting now, not after the adhesive has set.

Securing the perimeter:

The grass needs to be fixed at the perimeter to prevent movement and edge lifting. Where the edge is against timber or aluminium edging, nail gun or screw through the grass backing into the edging at 150–200mm intervals. Where the edge meets paving, apply adhesive between the grass and the paving edge.

Across exposed soil boundaries, use galvanised U-pins through the grass backing into the ground.

Kiln Sand Dressing and Finishing

Kiln-dried sand brushed into the artificial grass serves several purposes: it adds weight that helps the grass lie flat and stay in position, it keeps the fibres standing upright, and it gives the surface a more natural feel underfoot.

Apply at a rate of approximately 4-6kg per m², more for longer pile heights, less for shorter. Scatter it evenly across the surface and work it into the fibres using a stiff-bristle brush or a powered lawn brush, brushing in multiple directions to ensure the sand distributes evenly and the blades stand upright.

After brushing, run the back of a rake very lightly over the surface to identify any areas where the fibres are still flat or the sand distribution is uneven. Brush these out and re-apply sand as needed.

Ongoing maintenance tip: The kiln sand settles over time and the fibres can mat down in areas of heavy foot traffic. Brushing the grass with a stiff brush every few months keeps the pile upright and the surface looking fresh. This is the primary ongoing maintenance requirement for a well-installed artificial lawn.

Artificial Grass on Concrete or Decking

Laying artificial grass over concrete or decking is a different process to soil installation, the base preparation stages are skipped, but drainage and surface preparation become more important.

Over Concrete

The concrete must be structurally sound and reasonably level. Clean the surface thoroughly to remove algae, moss, and any loose material.

Check that the drainage falls away from any buildings, pooling water under artificial grass on concrete creates an anaerobic environment and unpleasant smells over time. For slightly uneven concrete, a foam underlay (shock pad) levels the surface and provides a softer feel underfoot.

Over Decking

Apply marine plywood over the decking surface to create a stable, even base. The existing deck boards create an uneven surface that would show through the grass.

The plywood also protects the decking from moisture retention. Fix the grass to the plywood perimeter using a staple gun or screws through the backing.

DIY vs Professional Installation

For a straightforward rectangular garden with reasonable access and sound existing drainage, DIY installation is a realistic project for a confident DIYer. The savings are genuine, professional installation typically adds £25-£40 per m² on top of material costs.

The situations where professional installation is clearly worth the additional cost:

• Complex shapes with multiple cuts, curves, and obstacles - accurate joins are very difficult without experience
• Large gardens where the volume of excavation and sub-base compaction is beyond what's practical by hand
• Drainage issues that need assessment and engineering before the sub-base goes in
• Seaming multiple rolls - visible joins are the most common DIY failure and very difficult to remedy after the fact

For context on current professional installation costs, see the MyBuilder synthetic grass installation cost guide. Getting two or three professional quotes also gives you a useful benchmark for materials and labour even if you ultimately decide to do some stages yourself.

How to Find a Landscaper

You can find and compare available landscapers near you on MyBuilder. Post your job with details of your garden size, the current surface, and whether you have drainage concerns, landscapers in your area will respond with recommendations and quotes.

Ask specifically whether ground preparation and base compaction are included in their quote, and what material they use for the sub-base. These are the stages where cost-cutting has the most visible long-term consequences.

All tradespeople on MyBuilder undergo checks at registration, such as ID documents, company details, certifications for regulated jobs and skill assessments, allowing you to hire with confidence.

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FAQs: Laying Artificial Grass

How Long Does Artificial Grass Last?

A well-installed artificial lawn with a UV-stabilised product and a correctly prepared base typically lasts 15 years. Budget grades without UV stabilisation may fade and become brittle within 5 years in exposed positions.

The lifespan is strongly influenced by the quality of the base preparation, poor compaction leads to uneven settling that damages the surface structure from underneath. You can browse completed artificial grass installations on MyBuilder to see the standard of professional work before hiring.

Can You Lay Artificial Grass Yourself?

Yes, for a straightforward rectangular garden with good drainage and reasonable access. The most demanding stages are the excavation and compaction (physically hard and requires hired equipment) and the seaming of multiple rolls (technically demanding and unforgiving of errors). See the MyBuilder gardener cost guide for context on what professional labour typically costs for landscaping work.

Do You Need Planning Permission for Artificial Grass?

For a standard rear garden replacement, no planning permission is required. For front gardens, the SuDS drainage rules that apply to non-permeable surfaces may be relevant - but artificial grass with a permeable backing over an aggregate sub-base is generally considered permeable and therefore exempt. Check with your local planning authority if your front garden exceeds 5 square metres and you have any doubt.

How Do You Prevent Weeds in Artificial Grass?

A correctly installed geotextile membrane prevents the vast majority of weed growth. Occasional weeds that push through from seeds germinating in accumulated debris on the surface can be treated with a water-based weedkiller - never use solvent-based products, which damage the grass backing.

Keeping the surface clear of leaves and organic debris reduces the surface material that allows seeds to germinate. For more on weed control, see our guide to getting rid of garden weeds naturally.

What's the Best Time of Year to Lay Artificial Grass?

Spring and early autumn are ideal - the ground is workable and temperatures are moderate. Avoid laying in very hot weather (the adhesive cures too quickly) or in frost (the ground is harder to compact and adhesive won't bond properly). Summer installation is fine in practice for most of the UK; the main limitation is that dry, hard ground in a hot summer takes more effort to excavate cleanly.