Ask a tradesman
Our expert plumbers have kindly agreed to share their wisdom on such topics as water tanks, dealing with a leak, copper piping and pipe sizing, dishwashers, toilet and washing machine installations, soil pipes, shower advice, dripping taps and much more.
Answered your question? You can find a reliable and local Plumber in your area today!
4,303 Plumbing questions
my boiler keeps losing pressure and needs filling from the loop every day, even though there are no sign of leaks under the floors or from the boiler overflow outlet
I'm having a new extention built which will include an ensuite and a new combination boiler.
I have noted that the builder has used plastic pipes connecting to some copper pipes using push on connectors, also some plastic pipes are reccessed into the brickwork and will be used for a radiator. Is this now common practice? In my day it was all copper pipe. Will these pushon's withstand water pressure?
Any advise appreciated?
upstairs radiator not working - all others are ok - valve on one end Therm controller on other - took a spanner to valve and ensured open - still will not come on - what could the problem be?
My combi boiler has been clicking on and off rapidly and apparently the problem is the heat exchangers. The boiler is still working and effectively heating the radiators and water. I have been advised by one plumber that a power flush is needed, with an expensive quote. Another plumber has advised using Ferroquest instead. Many thanks, your advice would be appreciated.
Toilet make/model is an Ideal Standard close coupled WC.
The flush generally continues after either the full or half flush buttons have been pressed, then continues to dribble very lightly until the next flush.
Occasionally is stops, but then dribbles again after the next flush.
The WC seems to have been discontinued, but fitting instructions for a similar model can be found at http://www.ideal-standard.co.uk/InstallationInstructions/4230%20close%20coupled%20wc.pdf
there are no nut fittings, just two plastic type hooks where the seat clips onto. so assume the screw part is within the pan. What to do?
The toilet is fiited into a cabinet,and to remove pan would have to break all the mastic.it looks like a fitted kitchen.
Only the lid of the seat has been broken, but will need to fit complete new unit.
My toilet bowl has an excess build up of limescale and as such doesn't always flush away and tends to get blocked, is there anything of industrial strength to use to clear it or would I be best off having a new toilet bowl fitted, and can this be done on it's own as there is no problem with the cistern.
I have a new shower to be installed, plus I'm re-tiling the en-suite room.
What's the best order to do this?
Obviously I remove all tiles and shower fittings first -
Then should I tiles the wall first? If so, is it best to mark the position of the new shower unit and tile to overlap, still leaving an area of plastered wall behind the shower, or should I tile everywhere and mount the shower over the tiles?
Or should I install the shower first, and then tile up to and around the shower?
18Oct - Whilse in an ideal world I kinda agree with Kelly plumbing and others, and while it would be great to spend a few hundred quid on a plumber (times "x" for the number of jobs), some of us don't have that kind of money to spare right now!
Thanks to London Lofts for actually answering the question, guys! That is exactly what I wanted to know.
Be assured, I look to the professionals when I'm out of my depth, but then that's why these question forums are here?! If you've never done it before, then how do you know?
18Oct - Just realised that London Lofts answered the question relating to the shower tray, but it's the wall shower itself that I was speciifically asking for?
It's a co-ordination problem, really - if I get a plumber in to install the shower, should I leave the tiling until afterwards, or should I tile the whole wall first, or should I mark the shower location and then leave a gap in the tiling?
i have bare pipes coming through the floor for my radiators how do i figure out which pipe needs the thermostat on
I am thinking of moving my combi boiler into the loft to free up space in the room it is in at present. I understand that the loft needs to be boarded out and that there should be a loft ladder and adequate lighting, which there is, but I am concerned that, because of the restricted space i.e. it is not possible to stand up straight in the loft, I would have difficulty getting a plumber to service the boiler each year or do any repairs. I wondered if the majority of plumbers are used to this situation or whether there would be a problem. If anyone could advise I would be very grateful.
Post your job to find high quality tradesmen and get free quotes
- All Questions
- Architectural Services
- Bathroom Fitting
- Carpentry & Joinery
- Carpet & Lino
- Central Heating
- Chimneys & Fireplaces
- Conversions - General
- Damp Proofing
- Demolition & Waste Clearance
- Fascias, Soffits & Guttering
- Gas Work
- Groundwork & Foundations
- Hard Flooring
- Kitchen Fitting
- Landscape Gardening
- Loft Conversions
- New Builds
- Painting & Decorating
- Restoration & Refurbishment
- Security Systems
- Tree Surgery