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Damp Proofing Questions
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1,197 Damp Proofing questions
My windows in my flat are not the best they are the old double glazing style with wooden frames and from time to time they get all mould and its making my blinds mouldy. I also had a problem with mould growing at the corners of my bedroom and anything that was sitting close by got affected. There is a built in cubboard in the room and a lot of clothes and shoes which were in it went al l mouldy. In the other bedroom there is a big wooden cubboard and bookshelf and I noticed everything inside the cubboard and the books were getting mouldy so i took them out and saw the wood was covered at the bottom. The bookshelf was black and the cubboard all green mould. I have also recently noticed the wooden frame of my couch is getting quite mouldy. Can anyone advise the best thing here? Also I have quite a lot of animals. Do you think this will be the cause of any problems?
I live in a 1930's semi detatched home. A couple of years ago, we had the house re-insulated, including cavity wall and in the loft.
Since then, we have had issues with condensation on the windows, between the double glazing and small black moud growing in several places in the house...mainly in my son's bedroom. We removed the mould with diluted bleach and painted over it with a special paint. It seems to be coming back though.
My son has a skin condition which seems to worsen when he comes home from university, so it is essential that this is sorted out quickly.
We were told by the insulators that we would need to have the existing vents opened or some fitted perhaps, but we never got round to it. Before having the insulation done, we hardly had any condensation and NO mould whatsoever. This suggests that it is definitely a ventilation problem, but I'm not really sure about what the exact solution is, and would greatly appreciate some help/advice.
Do you need to remove plaster in order to put in a injected damp proof course? Alternatively is installing solid wall insulation at the same time a good idea?
We've been advised to reinstate injected damp proofing a 1920's semi. Previously undertaken about 30 years ago. We understand we need to remove the plaster to a meter up to guarantee the work. Is there anyway to avoid this?
Alternatively, we are considering taking it all off and fitting internal (solid wall) insulation. We are only really considering this for a staircase wall - how long would a job like this take and what kind of prices might we be looking at? Any advise would be welcome.
Finally, I have come across injection damp proofing that goes into mortar rather than a course of bricks, any experience, knowledge or advise on this would appreciated?
Many thanks in advance
What's the difference, how can I identify both, are there tell tale signs?
How can I tell what is the cause of mould in my house? Two different companies have said different things...and I don't know which is right!
Having stripped wallpaper in my dining room there is black mould in the corner. It is over two walls and comes up to about metre. The water pipe for the house comes along the wall and up the other wall (upto boiler upstairs) but there is no sign of water, wood damage to skirting etc. I have had two cupboards up against the wall...for about 5-6 years but when I did a quick decorating fix 6 months ago I didn't see lots of damp/mould.
One tradesman has said it is definitely not rising damp and it is just caused by condensation (being near the back door, covered by cupboards etc). He wants to sell me a basement damp machine but I don't want this and if it is condensation I'll use cleaner and solution in paint/paste.
The other tradesman said it was rising damp (though he didn't seem to want to offer any other solution and didn't really speak - he just poked the wall and made a hole in it with a screwdriver!) and he quoted me £1000 to do damp proofing.
I'd like to be able to know what the mould is caused by and how to identify it given that the experts in my area can't agree!
We are having an issue with damp patches appearing on internal walls of our Victorian end of terrace house. The exterior wall is rendered in what appears to be concrete (browney-sand coloured) which when tapped doesn’t appear to be blown. The patches started in an upstairs bedroom about mid-height on the wall and with the recent rainy weather have spread to cover most areas of this wall. The patches are a tan/brown colour and in some places there is black mould or white fluffy areas (plaster salts?). The damp is now starting to show at ceiling level at the room directly below on the ground floor with the same brown-ey patches.
We’ve had several “damp specialists” round who don’t seem to want to deal with the work upstairs and will only do a damp proof course. Only one person who has been out to survey the area has made a suggestion which was to use thermal boarding on the interior wall and re-plaster it then paint the outside render.
If we went ahead with this would this actually solve the problem? Surely the damp would still come through but we would no longer see it?
As there are floor joists in this wall, is there any chance that these may become damaged from the dampness in the wall?
Could anyone give us some pointers on what the issue may be?
Thanks in advance for your help.
I am looking to purchase a bungalow which has a lot of potential. However, the main issue is it had a burst pipe in the ceiling, the plaster has collapsed and the current owners have just abandoned it. The burst pipe has been fixed, but the problem now is that ALL the interior walls have damp and black mould patches. This is also spreading as the property has not been dealt with and has been vacant for some time.
Any advice and help would be more than welcome. Or if you think I am out of my mind to buy this house, please tell me.
What's the best method of installing a damp proof course?
I have condensation in my Victorian conversion flat with black mould on some external walls. I have double glazing but the problem happens in winter when they're shut.
Would ventilation in windows (e.g. trickle vents) fix it or or would passyfier air vents be better to solve the problem? Ideally I'd like to be able to close the vents when it's really cold as don't have central heating.