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Electrical

Isolator switch for microwave oven and oven.

Anonymous user 01/03/2024 - 3.02 PM

The previous owners of my house had a firm install a new kitchen. The new kitchen has an oven (15A) and a microwave oven (16A). Both of these were plug wired to a dual socket and had 13A fuses installed. The microwave has since blown (how I found out about this). I know I need to install an isolator switch into my kitchen but how do I split the cabling on the load end to both the ovens or is there something else that must be done? Fortunately the dual sockets was wired from a 32A CB and has 6mm wire to the dual socket so I am hoping to just repurpose that into an isolator switch. Thanks!

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4 Answers

DCJ Electrical Solutions

Rating: 5 out of 5
Market Drayton
Re-configure the double socket with two 1g back box's and install two 20a switches
Answered26 August 2023
6

AS Electrical Services

Rating: 5 out of 5
Cradley Heath
As the previous electrician said "Re-configure the double socket with two 1g back box's and install two 20a switches" This is probably your best option at this moment in time but the original electrician should have read the manufacturers guidelines on installation and there is a high chance the manufacturer would have specified a dedicated circuit for these appliances.
Answered20 September 2023
0

CME Electrical Ltd

Rating: 5 out of 5
Bracknell
Your microwave has a fault, that is why it has blown it's fuse. Most microwaves come with a 13amp plug top installed, meaning they draw no more than 3kw. Your oven, if it is on a plug top will also be no more than 13amps 3kw. With diversity taken into account this will likely draw less current than that. The circuit you have there is perfectly acceptable. So in summary, by just putting an isolator in the circuit you are just creating a bigger problem as your faulty microwave will now trip the whole circuit in the event of a fault because you will have removed its overcurrent protection.
Answered21 September 2023
0