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insulated plaster board
Anonymous user 01/03/2024 - 2.58 PM
we have a pre 1920 house which has lathe and plaster walls and ceiling there little room to access fitting of roof insulation would it be practical to install insulated plaster board onto to existing walls and ceiling
Are you a tradesperson and able to answer this question?
3 Answers
MH Carpentry
Rating: 5 out of 5
From experience, loft insulation and cavity wall insulation provide the best 2 methods of insulating your home. Is there no or limited access to the loft? 270mm loft roll insulation on the floor plus cavity wall insulation will make a real difference to the energy efficiency of your home. Insulating internally reduces room sizes and head heights in your home. It is also a bit disruptive and costly as you’ll need to re-plaster and repaint once completed.
Hope this helps!
Answered21 September 2022
9
Romeo Llabani Plastering
Rating: 5 out of 5
It will certainly help, but as long as you are prepared to "loose" the room height.
It'd be better to remove the old ceiling (very messy job though) and insulate at minimum 270mm (as per guidelines) and re-board the ceiling, followed by a skim coat.
Yes it will be expensive, but once it is done, well worth it.
You can save on cost if you rip the old ceiling yourself, and add the insulation too. (possibly staple a netting or membrane to hold it up). If you're feeling confident on boarding up, then go for it (just make sure you stagger the boards) and just get a plasterer to skim.
Hope this helps
Answered25 September 2022
0
Anonymous user
Sometimes, there is just no access to some attic spaces or the access is so tight as to render access and exit too hazardous and I had to decline the offer of insulating the attic as a result.
I did, however, offer a few alternatives:
1. As the attic itself was large enough for me to move around in but not get into, my first suggestion was to create an attic hatch to gain entry and then insulate, even though this is an 1890s terrace house add on, to new Part L standards of 400mm as if it were a new build.
However, this would not have helped with the sloping element of the ceiling as there was no way to further insulate this element as it was only a 4” rafter deep availability.
This which resulted in me suggesting, after explaining that the external wall was a solid 9inch wall, that IWI ie internal wall insulation plus insulation and new boards and plastering on both the sloping element and flat element of the ceiling.
This would have resulted in new ceilings and plasterwork, and 2no newly insulated and plastered external walls done internally.
On this project there would have been a 74mm or 3inch reduction on an 8’ ceiling height which is negligible, unless you're 8’ and the client isn't.
The reduction of 3” in room length and width again is negligible when the benefits of a warm cosy room are taken into account.
EWI was discussed but the client baulked at the estimated cost especially as the whole 25’ x 18’ side wall and 12’ x 27’ pine end was priced with scaffolding plus they wanted to retain the original brick facade.
Oftentimes, providing a warm home requires a lot of give and take and, in a bedroom, whilst a few inches is important, the gain in comfort and reduction in heating costs, in these ridiculous times means that a balance must be decided.
Stay with the status work and freeze or lose a few inches of floor space and stay warm.
Answered14 October 2022
0