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Tiling

Tiling over a cracked substrate in a new build kitchen and wooden board for bathroom upstairs

Anonymous user 03/03/2024 - 3.39 PM

Hi all, I bought a new property, a semi-detached with 3 bedrooms. I didn’t take the developers flooring package for cost and limited choice reasons. I want to tile the kitchen floor which is basically a block & beam structure with a screed on top. Like many new builds, my floor has a long crack in the middle parallel to the patio door. I’ve been told by some people that the cracks indicate that the movement has already occurred, so if I tile directly on top of screed there shouldn’t be any issue. Some have said it is better to lay an uncoupling mat first then tile it on top of it? I would like to hear your thoughts if you have some tiling experience. Also what uncoupling mat do you recommend. I also want to tile the bathroom and en suite upstairs. The floor upstairs is HDF. Some tilers recommended me to lay a plywood and tile it over it, but some said I would need a tile backer board (Hardiebacker board), then a uncoupling mat on top (for water proofing) then tile it over. I would like to hear your thoughts on this too. Also, I wonder doing flooring ourselves would affect the warranty in anyway. The builder didn't mention anything about this. Thanks.

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4 Answers

Anonymous user

Unfortunately, movement of houses is a general issue. It will continue in the future, and, although you won't see any other signs on the floor after tiling, you will notice it on the walls. As for the solutions proposed, here they are: - Once you have the all clear from a flooring expert that the floor will not crack or damage further, or have had all the recommended repairs carried out, then you could consider using a crack suppression mat such as Flexbone 2Easy or DURABASE CI++. - For the upstairs I would choose the solution recommended by one of your builders, as in plywood, then fitting tiles with flexible adhesive (we have used both plywood and hardiebacker, based on assessment on site, it's hard to say one is better than the other without inspecting the works).
Answered6 September 2021
1

South Hams Interiors

Rating: 5 out of 5
Clydebank
For the kitchen lay a disconnecting mat over the whole floor with tile cement then lay tiles over this. The crack in the floor is probably due to the new build settling, but if there still lateral movement in the floor then this mat will prevent tiles from splitting. For the upstairs wet area you need to lay marine grade plywood screwed into the joists at 250mm intervals. 2 coats of primer on this then cement and screw in 6mm Hardiebacker cement board. I would not omit the cement board as this is a wet area and the plywood underneath needs to be sealed.
Answered6 September 2021
1

Classical ceramics ltd

No reviews yet

Bordon
The block and beam floor shouldn’t have cracked if it had been installed correctly I would over board the floor using Bal boards or hardi backer making sure you prime floor using correct sealer then glue and screw every 6inch centres to strengthen the floor For belt and braces use a decoupling membrane but make sure you seal the boards as cement based boards make the adhesive dry to quickly Regarding the installation the bathroom floor it should only require strengthening no need for decoupling membrane Make sure you seal the substrate and glue screw as before Regarding the warranty because you are not a qualified installer no company will cover you
Answered6 September 2021
1

EROZ CONSTRUCTİON UK LTD

Rating: 5 out of 5
Hove
Hi first we need to open the crack and repair it well, then we need to use mat to separate the ground and stones
Answered18 August 2021
0