Metal Flex Pendant without an Earth terminal

A class 1 light fitting should have a facility for connection for the earth wire (cpc) connection. If not, then check if it has a CE mark (probably on the packaging). If there is no CE mark then it is not a certified electrical product and should not be used. Although some Electricians may deem it safe not to connect a class1 device to earth if it is 'out of reach', however this would not be in line with regulations. EDIT: Based on your further information that the rose has a box in a box symbol (double insulated), this is the symbol for a class 2 appliance. Class 2 appliances do not need an earth connection. Class 2 appliances offer protection by being double insulated. It looks like the instructions you have maybe generic for a class 1 appliance.

Class II accessory, no need for a cpc (earth) connection. Please don't cut the cpc(s) off. Sleeve and park them in a terminal block. (If there are multiple cpc wires you must join all the cpc's together in a Wago or connector block to maintain continuity of the cpc conductor). If in doubt call an electrician.

All that has been said is correct, however, this task, straightforward as it may seem, is not a job for a DIY'er. It is an electrician's job for many reasons. Regulation, Safety, insurance etc, etc. We train for 4 years and pay indemnity and liability insurance for a reason so it would be best to have a qualified electrician do even this small task. With respect, Vastu.

First thing. Always isolate the supply before starting electrical work. Test the wires at the lamp after switching off ( main fuse or breaker for lights in your home, I don’t mean just switching the light off at the wall, there are still live wires up there ) and before starting or touching bare wires. ( you may think the power is off but it might not be so test and triple check the wires are dead ) In addition to the other answers. You could be looking at a white ceiling plate with multiple wires coming in an out, connected in a brass blocks of 3 lives ( brown or red), a block of 3 neutrals ( blue or black ) and a block of 2 ( brown or red, blue or black and maybe brown of red sleeve over 1 wire. ) This is a “junction box” and does 2 things, makes the continuation of the lighting circuit possible between the fuse box and end of the line, and creates a means to switch power on off to the lamp via a wire that leads back to the switch plate on a wall somewhere. If so you’ll struggle to fit the new ceiling cover over the junction box and you’ll need to mount a metal bracket up there somehow to support the new lamp. You could swap the rose junction like for like into connect blocks and stuff it in the ceiling but that would leave single insulated cables outside of a box or enclosure. ( not wiring regs compliant ) The alternative would be a product call Quickwire which replaces the rose junction and is connector and box/enclosure all in one. They are skinny enough to stuff up into the ceiling once fitted and are maintenance free, leaving you with the 2 wires you need for your dunelm lamp. Search “quickwire switch and load” on Amazon. The loop in / loop out power bit goes in the end mark power, the load is the wires to the lamp ( you may need a short length of 1.5 twin and earth cable for this ) and the switch goes to the switch wire pair ( the ones with sleeving ). If in doubt, call a spark. Yes a few quid but better than electrocution.