How would you properly prep walls and ceilings where some parts have lining paper and cracks?

plastic prep caulker poss 7-9 wide and a bag of cove adhesive powder mix for the cracked areas on lining paper,then light sand, a variation of roller sleaves.

Hi, From what are you saying (there is no link for the photos BTW) you have a linning paper on some parts, only, or on the whole wall/ceiling? Firstly, protect the area with dust sheets and masking tape. 1.My advice is to remove the lining paper completely. You do this with a steam machine for removing wallpaper. You steam the paper till gets wet, don't leave it too long where are cracks as the plaster gets bubbly and bursts. while steaming, use a scraper to remove it from the wall. 2. If you don't want to remove the lining paper. use a lining paper adhesive where is loose from the wall, if it is the case. Leave it to dry. Light sand the wall (you said was painted so it might have an uneven or rough area) Now, check all the cracks and use a scrapper tip or a safety knife to widen the crack to the point you can fill it with flexible caulk. Clean the dust as best as possible (blow it :) ) then use the caulk to fill the cracks. wipe off the excess and leave it to dry. 3. Use an easy fill to repairs other holes and imperfections and all the cracks you previously filled with caulk. place the easy fill mixture on a wider area so you can sand it lose. I would use it even on the lining paper joining lines if there are visible. Leave it to dry, then sand it with 120 grit paper. Check the whole area with your palm to feel it if is smooth and flat. Repeat the process if not. Dust clean the wall, the floor, you can use even a damp cloth. 4. For the ceiling, I would undercoat only the repaired areas but is up to you and the state of the ceiling paint. Apply 2 coats of paint on the ceiling. The walls. Undercoat then 2 coats paint. Use a paintbrush to cut-in all around. Be careful with the paint marks to smoothen it so it won't be dried by the time you roll in. Use a medium pile role 9 inch but thick not thin, so it holds more paint within. Check the drying time of the paint on the tin and the time between coats. Same process for woodwork: But first sand it well, undercoat then fill the joints (if necessary) with caulk, repair using wood filler. Sand and undercoat where you sand it, dust it well then apply the topcoats. I've seen white spirit on your list. No need for that. You're using water-based paint. :D Enjoy!! Save the planet!-Use only water-based paint and take the leftover paint you don't need to your local household waste and recycling centre to be disposed of appropriately. Thank you