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Complex Kitchen Floor Tiling Repair Job. Uneven Floor. What should I do?
Anonymous user 28/02/2024 - 3.57 PM
Hi, My kitchen floor is not level as can be seen here: https://ibb.co/3S3bM3h Floorboard to white kitchen leg towards the back, it is 28mm in height. Floorboard to white kitchen leg by oven on the left-hand side, it is 21mm. Floorboard to hallway door, it is 17mm in height. That means, from one end to the other, there is a difference of 11mm in height. The kitchen has been built on top of the existing tiled floor and cannot be removed for my job. In the exposed area, the previous tiles and adhesive have been taken up leaving Plywood with failed latex. These will need to be removed and their heights have been included in the above height considerations. Previous tilers laid tiles with only 1mm tile adhesive by the hallway, 5mm adhesive by the left hand side leg, and 12mm of adhesive towards the rear end leg to make the floor level. They used dot and dab, and didn't properly secure the plywood to the floorboards resulting in the tiles failing. I need to get it redone but not sure what the best approach is. I have purchased replacement 10mm 600x600 porcelain tiles. I am considering options of going with or without UFH. My assumed calculations are: 1. Using UFH. Floor height: Adhesive (3mm) Insulation board (6mm) Adhesive (3mm) Membrane with UFH cable (5.5mm) SLC (3mm) Adhesive (3mm) Tile (10mm) Total height is 33.5mm If a tiler went ahead with this option, with the gaps available at the 3 points, this will create a height difference of 16.5mm with the hallway floor, eat into 12.5mm of the left hand side leg and eat into 5.5mm at the rear end leg. I am guessing this means that the tiles would have to be cut around them, and kick boards would have to be cut to fit the reduced height. At the hallway end, the floor height difference between the hallway and the kitchen would be 16.5mm and a door transition will need to be used and part of the door cut. The floor would still not be level and I am not sure how discernible this would be. 2. No UFH heating Floor height: Thinset (3mm) Hardiebacker (6mm) Adhesive (3mm) Tile (10mm) Total height therefore is 19mm I am thinking if I got a tiler to go ahead with this option, this will add a mere 2mm to the hallway side, leave a gap of 2mm at the left hand size leg size and leave a gap of 9mm at the rear end leg. I'm assuming gaps can be filled with more tile adhesive when tiling which can then make the floor level. Are my assumptions correct? I would love to get UFH on my floor as this Kitchen is arctic but I am thinking that the easiest/best option is to retile the floor without it and go with option 2? Or is option 1 possible? Can expert tilers here tell me what they would do to tackle this? What is feasible? What would you recommend your client? If I went with option 1, will the un-level floor look obvious considering it is only 11mm between the ends?
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