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Tiling

My tiler is levelling floor on old adhesive which he can't remove. Is this safe/ok to do?

Anonymous user 09/03/2024 - 3.18 PM

Hi, I just purchased a property and the existing kitchen floor porcelain tiles are all moving/cracking and therefore I am getting the floor re-done. My tiler today ripped up all the tiles and noticed that the previous installer put some sort of adhesive all over the wood and then for some reason dot and dabbed the tiles with more adhesive onto the spread out adhesive. He claims that the lack of ditra mat and the dot and dab technique is what caused the previous tiles to fail. A picture can be found here of what was unearthed: https://ibb.co/VTy64FX https://ibb.co/pbZPvZh My tiler is leaving the floor as you can see in that picture because he claims he is unable to get anything further off the wooden floor. He has used power tools but he said it doesn't come off. He is planning to use a deep fill floor leveller onto this existing material to level the floor, then apply ditra matt with electric heating, and then finally grout the tiles on the ditra mat using flexible adhesive and flexible grout, ensuring full coverage. My question is, should I be concerned that the existing material is not all being removed and that he is levelling the floor onto the existing rock like adhesive he is unable to remove? He has perfect reviews online and has been tiling for 11+ years. He claims there should be nothing to be concerned about, aside from a small increase in the height level of the floor. He is adamant that there will be no future issues with his technique. Can I get some advice on if his strategy is correct and if not, what can I say to him because he said he tried several power tools and it simply won't come off. He doesn't know exactly what product was used previously but that it is rock solid. Thanks

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5 Answers

Luke's General Maintenance

Rating: 4.9 out of 5

Ebbw Vale

Yes the tiler is correct .. where the old adhesive and dot and dab has bonded to the floor if he was to just tile over that it would be an awful job .. I would also just use a levelling screed over the old stuff which will get rid of it all . When its set you will be fine .

Answered21 January 2021

Chris Morgan Bathrooms

Rating: 5 out of 5

Bridgend, Mid Glamorgan

I agree with the previous advice, a number of adhesives used to be formulated to use directly on to wooden floors, but the floor would have to be completely solid, I assume it was the movement in the floor that caused it to crack. Each to their own method, but with under floor heating I would use insulation boards, fixed directly to your old (prepared as it is) floor, fixed down with flexible adhesive as well as being screwed down. It's only 6mm but gives a far greater heat retention. Flexible adhesive and grout would then be the normal way of fixing the tiles.

Answered31 January 2021

DP Tiling

Rating: 5 out of 5

Manchester

Hi Jack, I’m a tiler with 20 years experience and zero comebacks on my prepared timber floors so I feel qualified to answer this. Most of the answers you receive on here are Ill informed, you don’t need ditra, durabase etc, that protects solid floors from lateral movement and prevents cracks coming through to your tiled surface, your floor wants ripping back to the floor boards only then you can see if there is any deflection (movement) on your subfloor (joists, floorboards) if there is fix it, step one done, then as the above bathroom guy says lay 6mm insulation board on top of wet S1 adhesive and fix with screws and washers leave overnight to set, now you have a solid base to tile upon, now install underfloor heating, check for continuity with a multi meter and when your happy apply a thin coat (just enough to fully cover and protect the wires) of levelling compound and tile using S1 adhesive and a quality flexible grout. You will have a solid floor, underfloor heating that works and a job I’d be happy to guarantee ! All these methods can be verified by searching the web, we don’t need mybuilders multi trade painter and decorator newb squad giving advice on things they clearly know nothing about.

Answered17 August 2022

Wolf security

No reviews yet

Ongar

Hi not an ideal situation, but what your describing it’s safe to say if the existing adhesive won’t come off you won’t have to worry that this will move once floor is levelled, just a bit confused as to why this can’t be removed when you say tiler has used power tools, do you know what Thanks

Answered23 January 2021

Nick

Rating: 5 out of 5

Bury St Edmunds

I would overboard the existing wooden floor with 6 mm Hardie boards, setting them in flexible tile adhesive and screwing them down specially along the joists, then I'd lay down the UFH electric matt and self level using SLC, then install the Ditra or any other decoupling matt, and finally tile using S2 flexible tile adhesive. Optional I'd use insulation boards between Hardie boards and the UFH electric matt.

Answered24 January 2021