Concern re builders instructed to address damp issue in a terraced Victorian property
Anonymous user 09/03/2024 - 3.14 PM
Hi all, wondering if anybody could give me their professional opinion!
I purchased a terraced Victorian property in February. The survey stated there were damp problems and that a damp proof membrane should be installed all around the bottom floor of the property.
I instructed a builder who specialises in restoring grade I and grade II listed buildings, to address the damp problem - and he advised that installing a damp proof membrane would not be effective, that all this would do would push the damp problem further up the wall. Assuming that this type of property being his forte, I took his professional word for it.
Instead, they advised that the original Victorian tiles in my hallway needed to be pulled up, and the floor to be cemented in, air vents installed and unblocked to ease the airflow under the floorboards. This work has been carried out, along with replacing some joists under the floorboards and replacing some floorboards where the damp had completely eaten them away, and re-plastering walls where the plaster had blown. I have paid circa £5,000 and the rooms have now been completely renovated and had new skirting boards fitted etc.
I'm now finding green mold in most of the rooms around the bottom of the newly installed skirting board (MDF skirting from skirtingsrus). Quite extensive in some rooms.
There also appears to me, to still be rising damp still in the hallway which has been cemented.
I'm now anxiety ridden that I've spent £5,000 on works to address the damp (plus hundreds on top to skirt/decorate the rooms) and that the work carried out was not adequate, and that there should have infact just been a damp proof membrane installed.
I'm really just looking for some professional opinions on the works that have been carried out/whether this was correct or I should concerned about the opinion I was given... also what could be now causing the mold on the skirting boards (the worst area is an internal wall). The previous skirting boards were crumbling from the damp, but they didn't appear to have any signs of mold.
Thanks in advance!
Carrie
Are you a tradesperson and able to answer this question?
without actually looking at the issue its very difficult to makes a proper diagnoses, your so called expert while dealing with the end result has not dealt with the cause of the water ingress whether that be internal or external, you first must find the cause of any water ingress wall,roof,windows chimneys, doors, ground level, condensation ect,ect,,cure this then deal with the effects it sounds like he has replaced everything without dealing with the initial cause therefore only covering things up sorry he is not someone I personally would allow to work on my building
This is all very confusing. Don't understand why the initial Survey recommended a d-p membrane to be laid on the floor if it is suspended timbers? Only if a concrete floor is laid onto damp earth do you need a d-p membrane which should not finish at the walls but go up the walls to make a seal. Why would you put air bricks in if a concrete floor was installed in the hallway? Green mould or black mould can be condensation which can be improved by increasing ventilation. You should claim under the Guarantee. This should be done at the first sign of concern. If you don't allow the opportunity to return to put it right it may void your guarantee.
For very simple scientific reasons , it is not possible to have black spot mould or mildew on skirtings or walls from rising damp . Seriously, impossible!
Mould and mildew are from the atmosphere, your humidity is way too high for some reason.
As far as what your builder said about ‘pushing the damp up the wall ‘ is total nonsense !
You might want to get an independent surveyor to answer your questions but I warn you , some of them are also poorly educated.
It might be wise to consider using real wood for your skirtings I have seen the green dye come out of MDF wood cills after I have lime plastered (I did not arrange the wood work)
It does dry and go providing the source of the damp is fixed and there is adequate air flow
If the property has a history of damp it may still have moisture present even though the works are finished.
Older buildings took longer to finish and were left to settle, dry and cure this is not a practice we do now as modern materials are all about quick and easy to maximise profit.
If you have a pre 1900s property it is important to allow the house to breathe (not just opening a window) you can do this by using non-hydraulic lime putty for your mortars, paints and plasters/renders
Cement tanking and render and plastic will trap moisture and potentially cause dry rot if air flow is low
did they look at the internal and external floor height to make sure the outside is lower than the inside?
Did they consider if you have cement rendering/modern paints that might be restricting permeability where maybe lime should be used?
And are there any streams/rivers near you house at a similar level.
My opinion damp proofers shouldn't touch old buildings with modern materials
