Food in fridge is getting frozen, No gaps/leaks in door

It is not unusual to have a layer of frost on the back wall of your appliance. If the wall is densely covered in ice, please see if one of the following will solve the problem. Check the temperature setting Your refrigerator’s temperature control may be set to an incorrect setting. Locate the dial by consulting your manual. Turn the dial clockwise and set the temperature. The recommended temperature is around 4 °C to 5 °C for the refrigerator and around -18 °C for the freezer compartment. Avoid opening the door too frequently or keeping it open for long Frost builds up primarily due to the interaction from letting warm air into the fridge freezer. To avoid this, try not to open the door too often, and don’t leave the doors open for very long

There could be several reasons for it. - Most common reason is the temperature for the refrigerator has been set too low or set warmer. If so, you may adjust the temp to solve the problem. - In case the fridge's door doesn't shut properly it can not seal. If the gasket does not sit properly or cracked, ripped or worn, you should simply replace it. - If your fridges coils at back side visible they might've got dirty or dusty, then the compressor needs to work harder and longer to keep the freezer temperature at freezing temperature. When this happens, on some refrigerator models, the refrigerator can over cool and freeze food and drinks. If this is the reason clean the coils on your refrigerator – Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and use a canister vacuum to remove the dust off the coils - Check the air duct position -if there is one available-

If you have THE FOLLOWING SYMPTOMS 1) build up of ice on your back wall 2) Fridge temperature is okay Causes. CAUSE :A - Door seal not sealing properly. When this happens you set a continuous influx of warm moist air from the kitchen, the water droplets in this air then freeze when they get into contact with the "wet wall" which is the rear panel of the fridge, this is because the coolant pumps around narrow pipes behind this wetwall. If this is the case, the ice build up will have a frosty texture, much like snow. If you look down the sides of the door seal, underneath the door and above the door you can physically see if the door is sealing. Also a well sealing fridge or freezer door causes suction when it has been closed for a period of time. You can feel this when you try and open the door. It will take a little pull to open it. If you find an area it does not seal you can manipulate the door seal with a hair dryer to make it malleable and allow the magnets in the door seal to pull it back onto the fridge main frame surface and then allow it to cool down so it keeps that shape. If you havent got a hair dryer a kettle of very hot water will do the same trick and then try and tease it with something like the none pointed end of a pencil or pen. CAUSE B: Internal insulation failure. If the insulation around the pipes behind the wet wall have deteriorated, (You cannot see this , its between the inner and outer panels) then you will get a "Cold Spot" which will freeze more than any other area on the wet wall. Typically this will create a much clearer smoother block of ice like the colour and texture of an ice cube. If this is the case the refrigerator cannot be repaired CAUSE C: - System fault. This is an issue with the internal pipework. Blockages can occur causing a "Cold Spot" and giving much of the same symptoms as Cause "B". This can sometimes be repaired by a systems engineer who can vacuum the pipework out and regas it. My advice though is dont bother, buy a new one. If the fridge is actually freezing the food in the fridge, so basically your milk is frozen then it is not likely to be any of the above, this will be a temperature control issue so you would be looking at a thermostat or thermistor issue

Ok, there are numerous things, one is lack of airflow across the evaporator (cooling coil) and there are numerous causes for that, fan not working, coil dirty or restricted by something ( product blocking either supply or return air) another is air leakage between conditioned space and non conditioned space (door gasket leaking, alowing warm, moist air in and causing it to run continuously) also, ironically if it is short of refrigerant it will tend to ice up , one because lower charge means lower pressure which corresponds to lower temperature but also lower capacity so it will run continuously and never reach set point. Now If you’re talking about a fridge/ freezer which is usually the case , there needs to be a defrost mechanism being the coil and the temperature of the space are below freezing, that generally consists of a timer, a temperature limit switch (which prevents overheating but if it fails open it will prevent defrost) and some heat source. If it’s just a refrigerator ( no freezer compartment, which isn’t very common, at least in residential applications) there generally will not be a defrost mechanism because the coil will be able to defrost (if it does frost a bit) when it cycles off as long as the temperature is set above freezing point. For there to be exchange of heat between two objects there has to be a difference between the two ( obviously) that means if you want 35 degrees in the fridge your coil needs to be colder ( between 10–20 degrees depends on type of coil, fan or just a convection coil) so your coil will be 15–25 so the closer to freezing that you set it the more it will run and the less chance it has “to defrost “ when it cycles off