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Damp Proofing

quarry tiles in Kitchen

Anonymous user 23/02/2024 - 3.29 PM

Hi, I am renovating my house, a terraced victorian house. I have some quarry tiles layed directly on sand in the kitchen, my plan is to have porcelain tiles in the kitchen but unsure how best to do it. tried to self level over the top of the quarry tiles to no avail (moisture came through and caused self leveller to come up & crack). options I can think of - pull up the quarry tiles, put in a damp proof plastic sheet, concrete/insulate on top, then tile on top of that. (only issue I can think is the moisture transferring from the floors to the walls) or I could pull off the self leveller and then try putting something else on top of the quarry tiles (liquid dpm, more leveller, something else)? or is there a better option alltogether? Thanks in advance,

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4 Answers

advanced preservation treatments

Rating: 5 out of 5

Torquay

Hi if the quarry tiles are solid you could apply a two pack apoxy resin you would have to take it up the walls a100mm

Answered2 January 2020

Anonymous user

Hi. These tiles are generally laid on a few inches of sand directly onto soil. There will be no damp proof membrane. Your biggest worry is your porcelain tiles cracking if you lay then on the quarry tiles, please consider upgrading the floor to comply with the current building regulations which will include 100mm of concrete, 100mm of kingspan insulation, damp proof membranes all on 150 cm of compacted hardcore, an average room will cost between £1500 and £2000. You will need to allow a drying out period before laying your porcelain., hope this is helpful

Answered2 January 2020

Anonymous user

Hello, I would definitely recommend lifting the floor tiles, excavate to allow for 150mm hardcore, 25mm blinding of sand, damp proof membrane, 100mm solid insulation and 100mm concrete. I would also consider installing underfloor heating if you do decide to do it this way, it will work much better for you. Make sure you allow the concrete to dry, if any moisture gets trapped between the tile and concrete tiles will end up lifting. If you do go for the underfloor heating then the method is slightly different. 150mm hardcore, 25mm blinding, DPM, 100mm concrete, allow to dry, 100mm insulation, underfloor heating pipes, flow screed or sand cement screed approx 75mm. Or you could just install electric underfloor heating matt, both work very well and are efficient. Hope that helps. Dean

Answered2 January 2020

Frank Thomas Damp Proofing

Rating: 4.8 out of 5

Chippenham

Hi, We would recommend taking up the current floor, without doing this you will always have a problem with dampness on that floor. Avoid liquid DPM, it is not designed for this purpose. 150mm compacted type1, DPM , 100mm insulation, 100mm concrete and screed to finish. You will need to wait for the concrete to dry before continuing any work. Industrial dehumidifiers can aid this and can be rented from most tool hire shops. The DPM should run up the wall above ffh to prevent moisture entering the walls. This is quite disruptive work and I would advise staying away especially if you have young children. Good luck!

Answered2 January 2020