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Central Heating

Underfloor Heating

Anonymous user 23/02/2024 - 3.27 PM

I am in the process of converting my garage to a living room and would like to ensure the room is fully insulated, damp proof and warm and keen to install underfloor heating (wet system) instead of radiators. The garage floor is currently concrete. I would like to know what is the correct process or running order when it comes to underfloor heating? Do I paint or lay a damp proof epoxy membrane, then insulation boards, then underfloor heating, then screed, then floor boards, then laminate flooring? Is this the correct procedure, or too many layers and risk the room not heating up enough or have I missed anything out? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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2 Answers

A C Gray contracting ltd

Rating: 5 out of 5
Great Yarmouth
To ensure a converted room is insulated to a very high level for low heating costs and great useable performance exsisting walls will need insulating with battens and high grade insulation board and foil back plasterboard and the same with the ceiling, and as many will know the underfloor heating system has a membrane, 120-150mm insulation board on the floor before an additional membrane and then the flexible pipe system with control manifold before a screed top is added or a insulated timber and heat comparable board floor .
Answered28 October 2019
5

N Connors

Rating: 5 out of 5
Romford
Firstly lay a thin layer of sand before laying your DPM this will Help it to not rip, then lay the DPM over the floor and up the walls slightly (like a pond). The DPC and DPM will have to meet to complete a water proof barrier. The DPC is normally a min of 150mm above the ground level in the wall (you may have to chase the wall out and tuck it in). Then lay your insulation board min of 100mm (thicker the better). Some people lay a vapour barrier next, some don’t. When laying your coils you can either staple you UFH coils to the insulation or you can use manufactured mats for them to fit in. If all your walls are nice insulated then lay the coils in a spiral starting in the middle for even heat or if you have a cold wall I.e large window. then start with the flow zig- zagging back and forth from the colder side of the room to the warmer side this should also create an even heat. Before you screed don’t forget to install the the insulated edging strip that stops you loosing heat into the wall. Then screed over the top. If you contact an UFH company then they will provide you will all the answers you need that guarantees there product for the best performance.
Answered22 November 2019
0