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Groundwork & Foundations

Laying a new concrete floor. Im really confused!!!

Anonymous user 15/03/2024 - 2.50 PM

Hi i would like some clarity as ive now heard 3 different things from 3 different people. Help!!! I had a internal wall and chimney removed to create a kitchen diner space. This revealed the floor was part concrete (30%), rest suspended timber (70%). The builder suggested a uniform sub-floor and we agreed to lay a new concrete floor. The foundation of the property is concrete. They removed all the sub-floor, filled it with rubble, added sand, whackerplated it. Then my builder was planning to add DPM membrane, Insulation, UFH, lastly apply screed. Building control insist this will not meet regulation. That regardless of the concrete foundation beneath hardcore rubble, the builder must use minimum 100mm concrete (4inches) and use mesh re-infocement such as A142. I had a tiler round this am, who said they dont tile onto concrete. That the UFH pipes go on top of the 100ml concrete and then it is covered with 65 ml screed. I am really confused as to how this floor should be made up and it is worrying me! can anyone clarify correct approach? It is not a new extension. Its turning an existing timber sub-floor into a concrete floor. Many Thanks

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4 Answers

Space Build & Design Ltd

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Birmingham
Option A. Hardcore compacted. 100 mm Sand blinding. 50 mm Dpm polythene. 1000 gauge. Reinforced concrete 100mm Pir ( kingspan insulation ) 80mm Underfloor pipes laid onto this. Fibre reinforced screed 70 mm Tiles laid over once dried ( 3 to 4 weeks ) Option 2. ( my preferred and used ) Vented Block and beam floor system laid into your existing house brickwork. Dpm polythene. 80 mm Kinspan ( pir board ) Underfloor heating laid over. 50 mm liquid cemfloor screed. Tiles over once cured. 3 to 4 weeks. Either will comply with current uk regs.
Answered23 July 2019
4

Anonymous user

In simple don’t worry follow the advice and guidelines of building control, personally I would had said what your building was suggesting was adequate however if building control disagrees then unfortunately you follow there lead as they have ultimates say for how it done in your area every local council is slightly different because all around the county up and down certain practices are better then others especially for the floor and foundations for your building as solid and ground conditions very massively in different areas so it’s important to get it right first time. The pipes your referring to I’m gonna assume is under floor heating now my knowledge here is slim however I have seen under floor heating done both ways you mentioned but hopefully a plumber on here can give a solid answer to which is the better practice. I think the tiler saying he can’t tile direct into concrete is a personal opinion too but I’m no tiler so wait for a tiler to answer that question. It’s important you trust your tradepeople your getting in you should ask them theses sort of questions directly they should be able to answer them all in fair amount of detail if you don’t trust their opinion sorry but might I ask why you have hired them to do the job a smooth job is built on trust for both parties involved. Regards Frankie
Answered21 July 2019
1

Anonymous user

If you’re having wet under floor heating you will need kingspan or similar insulation in the subfloor to to create a thermal barrier the pipe work for the heating is then laid and tested before a final screed goes on top to finish
Answered22 July 2019
0

Anonymous user

Do it the way the building inspector told you to then just lay a screed on top of the concrete
Answered25 July 2019
0