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Driveways & Paving

Sub base for block paving

Anonymous user 28/02/2024 - 3.39 PM

I have had my drive paved, not happy with the work. The preparation is key to the durability of a drive. I wasn't home while the work was carried out, big mistake. I have excavated along the edge adjacent to the garden, the border blocks are not concreted down, just a slap of cement pressed up against the sides, over soil, grass and gravel, whatever it's next to. I can see the ballast and crushed glass sub base, they mainly used my old concrete drive for ballast, which in total is 6.5 cm thick. Do I have any redress, or is it just my bad luck I employed a cowboy company. There are other issues and I have taken photos for evidence, I paid a lot of hard earned money for this job and been lied to and fooled by these jokers.

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3 Answers

Anonymous user

How we would prep for block-paved drive would be: Dig out old drive to a depth of 300mm, depending on the ground we may use tram membrane, we would import stone/crushed concrete to a min depth of 150mm also very well compacted. We would bed all edging blocks min depth of 50mm concrete and backing up blocks so they don't move, then a max depth of 50mm of sand also compacted. It's very impotent when block-paving drives that the preparation is done right with the repeat car access the same each time.

Answered9 August 2018

Anonymous user

A cement ‘fillet’ to hold back block paving is not sufficient and it will move. I wouldn’t say it’s defiantly going to sink if laid on existing concrete drive because it probably won’t. But depending whether this concrete is broken up or not. The sharp sand will get damp and never dry out making blocks unstable and the damage will occur outwards not downwards.

Answered27 August 2018

Anonymous user

Thay shut of dug out drive and put down type one stone all eaging shut have been laid on concert all the way around the eage and then with a backing on it 2 hold them in place I hate it when people don't do there job proply

Answered24 February 2019