How should you damp proof a Victorian house for rising damp

3 different pieces of skirting speak for themselves, sorry but this waterproofing is expected to fail.

first thing to do it don't pay them for the job when they come to pick up their horses, & get someone who knows what they are doing. houses of this age don't generally suffer from rising damp , they tend to suffer more penetrating damp, you best bet is find someone who is used to working on older houses and understands how the materials used in the construction of you house all work together in keeping it dry. good luck alex

In the case of new builds, plaster can be applied directly to plasterboard. In preparation, plasterboard screw heads should be countersunk and the joint between boards taped. Metal angle beads are used to ensure a crisp finish around external corners. Then it is simply a case of applying a layer of plaster. It is usual for ceilings to be set with plaster before work commences on the walls. All blockwork walls to be plastered should receive one coat of sand and cement render, known as a scratch coat. This is left to set and then scratched, using a float with nails in it, in a swirling fashion to provide a stable key for the next coat, which is applied when the first scratch coat nearly dried out completely. These two coats can be used to ‘dub’ out and fill any indentations, The topcoat plaster skim finish is applied. This should be smooth and not show any trowel marks or undulations as it is, essentially, the finished surface of the walls and ceilings in your new home. Dpc barrier injections get injected into the brick mortar to enable the chemicals to create strong rising damp protection. Skirting can be connected together if cut at a 45’ degree as this would minimise defects but this is not advisable and would benefit from a full length were applicable.