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Plastering & Rendering

Hard wall or sand and cement over brick

Anonymous user 03/03/2024 - 3.16 PM

Update: 3rd October 2017 With reference to the below question, so far managed to render the walls using s/c with waterproofer. Took some practice, but did a good job, with the aid of a Darby. Question, I have a wooden joist across the top of two walls above the bricks, what is the best and correct method to apply wet plaster i.e. s/c? I have researched wire mesh, seen some at toolstation galvanised wire mesh, will this work and hold the render? If yes, do I secure the mesh tight against the wooden joist, or loose and allow a gap between the joist and the mesh? Your help and advise has been beneficial so far, much appreciated! Thank you very much for your advice, much appreciated. I have some additional questions: I am planning to go with s/c, but how much lime do I use and which type? Is it 4:1:1 i.e. sand/cement/lime, isn't the lime already added to the cement? I understand it helps with the workability, hmm maybe prevent cracking, I'll leave this to you guys to clarify! If I also add waterproofer to the mix, how much? Lastly, how much material (above) would I require for a box room, only three walls, one is a stud wall adjacent to the bathroom. Reason to go with s/c, tight budget, I hear you on the dry lining with thermal boards, but I'll lose space internally. Despite the internal insulation, I am planning to insulate externally in the next few years. Again, appreciate your advice. Glad I stumbled across my builder :) Hello, Renovating three bedrooms of my 1930's semi detached house. Removed wallpaper, also had to remove all the plaster back to brick (only done this to the box room so far) most of it was blown, the base coat was a light grey colour. A polish plasterer popped over to take a look, (recommended from brother in law). He advised as it's solid walls no cavity he will use sand and cement followed by two coats of multi finish. He also advised to only patch other room walls where the plaster has blown, then fill with bonding, and prep the walls with one coat of PVA, then he will do the rest the next day. He also said to remove the plaster if you see cracks. I have looked into hard wall.plaster, do you recommend hard wall over sand and cement for exterior facing walls? I haven't seen any signs of damp, I have installed a vent in the box room. I appreciate your advice, especially to my last question. Regards Aj

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5 Answers

Anonymous user

Surprise it a solid wall?? should have cavity by the 30's. You'll be able tell by brick bond. Dot & dab if walls are bad?? out of line etc Straight walls, pre-mix plaster, hardwall etc or sand and cement(lime aswell). Use multi finish for top coat. PS walls will need to be prep with PVA or build grit depending on surface requirements. Part2... benefits of dot & dab, drys alot quicker than hardward or cement. The wet plaster can take upto two weeks or so to be ready for paint. With dot & dab you can paint in days! Part3 hydrated lime with Portland cement and sand. To your question about wall plate(I'm guessing by your description). You need roll of Xmet, tack to wood with curve facing towards the wall. Then float on top with sand, cement & lime -You should done this before floated the wall. PS make sure you cover the joint between wall and wood to prevent cracking.
Answered4 October 2017
2

Anonymous user

Hardwall plaster holds all the UV values building regs require but all light weight base coat plaster only lasts 8-12 years. Sand and cement ticks all the boxes for all solid walls within a property of this type with waterproofing additives add to the mix. It has proven itself over a long time. I would however use 50mm thermal board on all window walls and outside facing due to no cavity ,this as well is a building regulation if you built a non cavity extension.
Answered4 September 2017
2

Anonymous user

Sand and cement can be used all the way to skim finish Ie Apply 1 scratch coat of 3 sand 1 cement ratio and further coats of 4 - 1 ratio to brinv depth and plumbness to the walls amd skim with multi finish Its going to work out cheaper and will be hard wearing. Im not really the sort of company to offer mix and match solutions. Sand cement Or gypsum base coats If you seek damp proofing as i suspect the polish gentleman is implying with the sand cement base coat. Go with polymer membrane. Ultimately i would recomend 2 solutions Cheap Sand and cement and skim finish to the areas in question. Best way Affix membrane to the walls and dry line (dot and dab) insulated plasterboard to the walls and skim. You would be protected from the solid wall construction doomed to show damp at some point. Its not if......its when. And also adding a U value to the walls using insulated plasterbaord.
Answered28 August 2017
1

Anonymous user

Hi this may help but I know that on an internal brick wall and cavity wall you can use Hardwall and skim. On an external wall that is single brick you must use sand and cement. Have heard this from collage and school of life plasters alike but can't rember why.
Answered30 August 2017
1

Anonymous user

Hi their, In this instance I would also use thermal boards and skim, it will also save money on your heating bills so although the most expensive option, over time you will get your money back with cheaper heating bills.
Answered30 August 2017
0