Can I hide pipes in the wall?

Hi, you can chase the pipes into the wall. don't try and brake through into the cavity. it is best to keep your runs verticle.as you are fitting the bathroom, use common sense in planning where you will have to fit things after. Also try to keep joints to a minimum in the wall. In my experience it is fittings that leak, not pipes! and personally i use plastic pipe. buy a 25m roll rather than lengths so you can cut to size and not join. if you are coming out of the the wall in crome plated copper (looks ace on towel rails) then use compression fittings as the crome plate is so hard that pushfit style fittings won't bite in to the pipe like on copper and plastic. Remember insert sleeves on all plastic pipe ends. If you don't want to chase out too much you can nail clip the pipes to the wall and dot and dab new plasteboard. (gives you the ability to sqare up those walls, you'll love that when you come to do the tiling) There are no regs about burying hot cold or heating in walls, just gas! However isolating valves are required. and you need access to them. it's best that they are the last fitting before the appliance. if you are having a shower then you will want full bore 1/4 turn lever valves or gate valves. this maintains a good flow. Lever are better as the brass in gate valves perish over time. Another good reason to use isolating valves is you can test everyting upto the valve before you bury it in the wall. one other tip, for all mechanical fittings (ie has a thread, whether compression with an olive, or with fiber washer) then apply jet blue (or other potable water jointing paste) to the area which will make the seal. This saves me going back to fix drips!!! newest building regs demand extractor fan. Good luck, jez.

If you are hiding the pipes to the shower etc, in the walls, then make sure they are clipped in place or they will clatter when under pressure. If you are using copper then look at Bristan's concealed mount and external mounts, they are much safer than the horrible 15mm--3/4 shower mounts that come with most showers. If you dont have the tools then hire a pneumatic breaker and chasing tool for the day. Remember to allow for the thickness of any tile and adhesive when you plot centres, work out your pipe routes well, most showers have a 150mm centre for the mixer. I made a little jig out of a spirit level with 2 16mm holes in it, I pipe up to my jig and make sure I have my pipe centres and level so they are exact after tiling. Personally I would stay away from plastic pipe at all costs, it has it's place and it's uses, but if you dont cut it correctly and debur the the pipe the it does move and weep. If you do use plastic then buy Hepworth, at least the fittings have some teeth to grip the pipe, the others are just compressed O rings and no better than strong garden hose( lol not a fan of plastic). You don't say what sort of hot water system you have, but you may have problems if you are burying 22mm in walls. If you are not sure then just come back in here and ask the guys. Good luck and enjoy. regards Mark

hi martinp_25 Part A section 2C30 of the building regs clearly states "Vertical chases should not be deeper than one-third of the wall thickness or in cavity walls one third of the thickness of the leaf. Horizontal chases should not be deeper than one-sixth of the thickness of the leaf or wall. Chases should not be so positioned as to impair the stability of the wall particularly where hollow blocks are used." As some other tradespeople have suggested attach the pipes to the wall and plasterboard over the top. You don't mention what floor your bathroom has. Is is wooden and can you not fit the pipes under the floor boards? If you can and want to, please feel free to ask about the building regs regarding maximum depth and placement of floor joist notches and/or holes in floor joists. (yes there are building regs for them) Hope your wife appreciates the efforts your going to If you are in doubt........dont! If you have to ask........make sure you get the correct answer. Conrad.

yes you can,grinde out a channel in the brick work ,using a small 4 inch angle grinderwith a diamond blade. where you wish to lay your pipework.grind it out in lines about 2cm a part then knock out with hammer and bolster.if using copper then they need to be rapped in lagging.plastic then us barrier pipe.plaster over top.have fun

I would advise, battening out to conceal the pipes, and also using these voids to fit insulation.

yes you can use plastic barrier pipe , try taking the wall back to brick and then dot and dab over the pipes to save chasing in to the brickwork

Hi i,m rob the first thought that comes into my head is can you afford to lose 2" on one wall to batten out and plaster board, this would allow your pipes to be hidden, plastic pipes are more resilient to frost as they expand and copper does not although if they get that cold there, you would be standing in bathroom like an ice cube lol. ps try not to have fittings within the wall as these would always be vulnerable . Hope this helps Rob