Ready to hire?

Post your job in minutes, browse real reviews and choose who to speak to.Post a job

Need some tips or advice?

Restoration & Refurbishment

I live in a victorian end terrace that has a big problem with damp on the inside gable wall.

Anonymous user 28/02/2024 - 2.41 PM

A public footpath runs along it's length gradually increasing in height rising to approx. 2 and a 1/2 ft above inside floor level. The inside of the wall was covered with two layers of pine cladding put up by the previous owner, the first layer being nailed directly to the wall. This has been removed. The outside of the wall is covered with render with the bottom 6ft covered with what looks like a harder render with a waterproofing first layer. The render above looks softer but not sure if soft enough to allow moisture to escape. The inside of the wall is tanked but have been told by a couple of damp proof specialists that it is failing.I know I need to allow internally created moisture to escape somehow to avoid condensation which I know is part of the problem and am considering removing what is left of the plaster, it being mainly carlite bonding which has very absorbent qualities. I'm considering replacing the plaster with insulated plasterboard dot and dabbed directly onto the brickwork. I'm considering placing a waterproof membrane over the top of the tanking to deal with damp penetration from the footpath but not sure how to deal with the problem of condensation. Not sure if I need to remove render on outside of wall or if installing airbricks at head height would be better with plasterboard fixed on top of,leaving enough of a gap to allow air to circulate from the ventilated floor void. Have considered Dutch damp proofing which consists of specially designed ceramic bricks which are fitted into outside of wall which are meant to allow the wall to breathe which would deal with the condensation problem. Not sure whether I would have to undertake all three ways of tackling the problem. Cost is a factor and would obviously choose the least expensive option. Would I still need to worry about condensation on the inside of the gable wall if I put up insulated plasterboard on top of it? This is driving me bananas! Any advice would be very much appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Anthony

Are you a tradesperson and able to answer this question?

4 Answers

lb waterproofing

Rating: 4.8 out of 5

St Lukes, London

This one is too complicated to judge without seeing so many variables call in a PCA independent remedial surveyor this could save you a lot of money in the long run

Answered15 May 2022

NSD BUILDING SERVICES

Rating: 5 out of 5

Dereham

The first thing to check is that the footpath is not above your damp course level,if it is this need rectifying before you carry out any work,a membrane against the exterior wall will stop this,put in an air brick or 2,remove plaster and re sand/cement

Answered12 October 2011

Anonymous user

firstly i would have the problem surveyed, to determine if the damp is rising or is penetrating throught the render. the render may have blown of the brickwork and water may be geting trapped behind, is there a chimney running up this gable and has it been capped the damp could be any one of these but if it is damp rising i would go for the dutch damproofing this is a good method of stopping rising damp if done properly by a reputable firm.which i suggest that you do your homework before hiring as for air bricks this would help too.

Answered12 October 2011

Prides Plastering

Rating: 5 out of 5

Torquay

Firstly the outside foot path might need lowering if possible but really this kind of job needs to be seen in person. But keep in mind that Victorian houses need to breathe(doesn't mean open windows) it means it needs to be vapour permeable! Avoid cement render, tanking and damp proofing membranes and they will hide and trap moisture within the structure of the wall and it will come back as failed render, cold spots. Dont dot and dab it will soak through the dabs even if you try to seal the brick work it will lead to cold spots (dot a dab soaks up moisture but doesn't effectively release it) Instead use non-hydraulic lime mortars and plasters/render this will allow moisture to pass through the walls to the outside (for best results lime needs to be inside and outside) Use breathable paints such as clay paint/lime wash or silicate mineral paint. The reason the tanking is failing is because it didn't cure the problem in the first place, it just hid it temporarily and has probably made it worse as the moisture can escape properly. Your don't need a damp proofer you need a builder/plasterer that understand non-hydraulic lime You could build a lathe and plaster wall to stop it directly bridging (something that would need to see in person)

Answered1 December 2023