Low water pressure (especially hot water in Kitchen)

Hi. I disagree with the combi option suggested above. It is quite likely that as the pipes have been altered it may possibly nothing more than an air lock. This could be due to original pipework, or indeed pipework that's been added, as once the air is cleared then it should work ok until the pipes are next drained. It is possible this could be easily cleared. The other possibility is that debris has entered to pipework from the tank, such as bits of insulation or even an insect floating on the top. I once saw a dead mouse blocking the outlet from a high level Fortic header tank being sucked onto it by the pressure. Another thing it could be as you say it deteriorated over a few days is the inlet valve. Was this changed & is it allowing enough water in ? I've seen situations, usually in single occupancy dwellings, where the water barely trickles into the tank. In the normal way no problem is noticed until there is an exceptional demand. I sometimes pick this up if I've had to drain the tank due to a seized HW valve for instance. It sounds like you have some monoblock mixer taps fitted, well these will restrict the flow rate a bit, but I wouldn't expect it to the extent that you describe. 1st, check the tank & how well it is filling. If there are any floating bits on top then remove them. If it's not filling well then there is your problem. 2nd, check how the pipes run & look for any high spots (pipes running slightly uphill) from the tank outlets in the loft. It may only be very slight but enough to cause a problem. If not perfectly level or slightly declined in the direction of flow then it is likely your problem lies at the high point & the pipes have been badly installed. To clear this problem could be very easy, or a complete nightmare depending upon how your services are arranged. There are certain tricks which can be deployed to deal with a stubborn air lock, but can result in damaging your hot water cylinder & so I am not going to suggest this here. If it's due to an air lock on the outward side of the cylinder then you may be able to clear it via a mixer tap. Ideally you want 1 with mains cold water. Block the outlet with your palm, turn on the hot tap, then open the cold tap to try & purge cold water back up the hot. You may get a bit wet doing this. Also you might find there is a check valve on the hot feed, in which case this wont work. If you have a hot valve present for a washing machine then you can connect the hot & cold together with a WM hose & purge it that way. This may also help to move any debris if there is a blockage in a pipe as well. Otherwise call a reputable local plumber. You do not need a combination boiler, just a bit of know how & common sense. I hope this helps to resolve your problem. Good luck, Martin

hi very obvious -firstly : I can see from your explanation clearly that the pressure even before repositioning the appliances is not that great because you dont have great pressure due to the tank being with poor head as well as the hot water cylinder which supplied by the same water tank. secondly : the plumber made some modification so he might add plenty of elbow which affect the pressure . yes pump can solve the problem and the plumber should have checked the pressure before the work and make you aware of the situation . as i can see that you have great water pressure in the kitchen which supplied from the main water i recommend you replace the system with combi boiler and use the main water pressure to supply all house and get rid of cold and hot water tank To update: in this case something went wrong with installation . To be sure get your bath connected to main water as trial and watch out the difference if it sound better then your pressure has been affected by installation .