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Damp Proofing

What kind of damp do we have?

Anonymous user 03/03/2024 - 3.07 PM

We have a damp problem in a 1920s semi-detached house we moved into 8 weeks ago. We are not sure if it's a condensation problem, or penetration from the outside, or even rising damp on the ground floor. I have taken pictures of the affected areas: https://plus.google.com/photos/101677415577594240947/albums/6009137859251170033?authkey=CLWchYXqidbADg The windows are all PVC which looks completely sealed - there don't appear to be any trickle vents. We do notice occasional condensation on the windows in the morning. We need to get the windows replaced with wooden-framed windows again (in accordance with local building preservation-area regulations - originally, this house had wooden-framed windows). Would doing this help? Is there anything we should look out for? Can we get trickle vents on wooden frames? The walls do not have a cavity. I think there is just two layers of brick, with an external render. The external walls are often quite cold to the touch. We tried to clean the affected areas with Auro Mould Eliminator a few weeks ago, but it's either been ineffective or it's just the stains that remain. We are going to repaint anyway, but before that, we want to take some preventative measures so that the problem doesn't come back and are looking for advice. We have been suggested to get the external render of the house looked at in case there are cracks that water is coming in through and get it patched up. Searching around online, people advise getting dehumidifiers to help with condensation. Are there any other measures we can take?

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3 Answers

Proman Electrical Ltd

Rating: 5 out of 5
Swansea
Hi, Rising damp will "rise" only to around 1 metre, so if your walls do not have a dpc, or have a failed dpc then you may get damp to this height. Cure with damproofing injection or cream, this creates a "new" dpc preventing damp from rising. Plaster is removed 1.2m, and new plaster is put on after walls are treated with anti-salt solution. Find out your wall construction. This will tell you if you have any cold "bridges" from the outside to the inside. A solid wall is possible but unlikely. A solid wall will give you condensation problems unless you insulate (internal or external). There are a number of 50% grants available at present to thermally upgrade your home. You can control condensation with positive pressure ventilation which also has the added benefit of providing a healthier environment against allergies etc. These are relatively cheap to install and extremely cheap to run. 95% of water ingress is caused by faulty fascia/gutter or the roof verges failing, do not pay for a re-render until you are absolutely sure that water is not getting in with these more probable fault areas.
Answered5 May 2014
1

Trident Damp

Rating: 5 out of 5
Sidcup
Hi there sounds more like a condensation problem which means better ventilation in the windows or extractor fans fitted or thermal boarding the affected walls to bring the temperature up on these walls to stop the moist air condensing on them which is what the mould feeds off, also try to control the moisture in the home by not drying clothes on radiators and keeping kitchen and bathroom doors closed when in use. try to find a local company that deal with these issues. regards Joseph
Answered5 May 2014
0

Flamborough windows

Rating: 5 out of 5
Bridlington
As regards to the windows look for residence 9. They're about the same price as hardwood timber, but out perform timber by miles. Condensation is caused by poor air circulation. Make sure all the fire places have an air grill if blocked up, also mechanical ventilation to exhausts outside. Carbon fillters are pointless, as they don't get rid of moisture. Also look at p.i.v systems. Lee
Answered12 May 2014
0