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Bricklaying & Repointing

best mix for re-pointing

Anonymous user 23/06/2026 - 8.32 AM

I'm about to re-point parts of the rear of our house. It is a brick house made in the 1920's. I'm reasonably experienced at pointing, but mostly stone - where it's always lime mortar. There are different points of view on the best mix in any given situation. The original mortar in this wall is a lime mortar. But the current pointing is strong cement, with black colouring - ash or something. I think this is fairly typical. Obviously it's going to crack out as the house moves, which has happened in several places. I really can't be asked to chisel out the entire wall and re-point the whole lot. It's a big house. Eventually it will need to be done, but now is not the time. I've just got to stop the damp getting in for the time being. I'd like to match the colour, so I'd need some sort of black powder to mix in. I'm guessing the merchant will stock something suitable? But mainly, I'm not sure which mix to use in light of the current pointing and original mortar. Suggestions?

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16 Answers

Anonymous user

If you are going to do remedial/repair works, go for a 5 sand, 1 cement and 1 lime, and use some Cementone to get a near match. Doubtful wether you will get an exact match, if you invest in a electric mortar raking tool it wont take long to cut it all out, then you can repoint in a lime mortar mix, colour matched from Tradlime Co. For less than a ton, you can get a makita 115mm cutter, which will take the mortar rake attachment, set it to the depth and away you go.
Answered1 June 2026
71

Anonymous user

Hi. Your always best to use a 4:1 ratio for re-pointing at a depth of 10mm, this as a rule when you do re-point the entire house your colour matching will be accurate. Never do it any stronger as the morter will harden and shrink slightly causing it to crack and Ultimately fall out. You can get dyes for your morter from most diy shops. Different addatives though require different proportions of how much you add. you should work this out from the directions on the packaging. Any further info please ask, John.
Answered19 June 2011
56

Building Division

Rating: 5 out of 5
Leeds
i would personally go for 4 to 1 mix with additive to get the color you want but would avoid patching, you never get the right mix, with the time passing color fades, for best effect repoint the whole side,
Answered30 May 2026
44

Anonymous user

hi,has you said after time cement mortar will crack .this happens as the lime mortar behind it recieves no moisture,drys up and turns to dust .so yes i would suggest you repoint it all.if you still wish to do a patch repair.try using a lime mortar with a mortar cement colouring.from builders merchant.or just lime mortar ,if you plan on repointing the rest in the near future.As for the damp issue you may wish to treat bricks before repointing with a waterproofer.
Answered19 June 2011
36

GKMC Building Services

Rating: 5 out of 5
Chichester
What ever you do do not make matters worse by pointing with cement most of your damp problems have beeen caused by portland cement being used in the 1st place, older buildings like this were built to breath, portland cement does not allow this to happen, for more information on this go and look at the diocese of london lime mortar re-pointing
Answered11 June 2026
26

Jamie Palfreman

Rating: 4.8 out of 5
Worthing
In my experience I would normally do some test patches with different ratios of sand to cement eg ( 4:1 5:1 6:1) to see what matches the colours best.
Answered3 December 2019
6

Anonymous user

I would remove all of the cement and start again,cement mortar in old buildings can cause damp and condensation problems so I’d strongly suggest going with a lime pointing with either 2 and a half sharp/ building sand and 1 lime then either finish in weather struck or a beaten finish
Answered18 June 2020
5

Daniel White

No reviews yet

Didcot
My experience with mortar dyes is that a little goes a long way! They do a great tint as well as black. Best thing to do is to gauge a small mix (1/2 bucket, sand, cement and a pinch or so of dye). Leave it to set on a bit of ply for a few days then you can determine what it will set like in comparison to your original 1920’s pointing.
Answered28 May 2026
0

james harrison

No reviews yet

Glossop
4 yellow sand /1 lime👍🏼 Houses built before 1920s didnt have cavities so being built in 1920 it could have one but then again it might not so do it in lime and be sure.
Answered1 June 2026
0

Repoiting brings and stone specialist

No reviews yet

Exeter
3:1 natural lime solid and breathable
Answered8 June 2026
0

G E RESTORATION

Rating: 5 out of 5
Whitstable
You can get black colour from Huws (build base ) add colour to cement or lime first and shake mix then add sand and mix Be careful as black is a strong additive so one cap to start then add if needed
Answered8 June 2026
0

Anonymous user

Hi, A 4:1 mortar mix should only ever be used below ground. A 5-part sand, 1-part cement, and 1-part lime is the best option. As for matching the colour, this can be tricky because different brands of cement and different quarries of sand can change the colour of mortar.
Answered11 June 2026
0

Ethan Washington brickwork

No reviews yet

Sandy
I normally use a 4.5:1 building sand and cement mix for repointing. It’s a good all-round mix that gives a strong, tidy finish. I always make sure the old mortar is raked out properly and the new pointing is finished neatly to match the existing brickwork.
Answered12 June 2026
0

Colton Brickwork And Landscaping

Rating: 5 out of 5
Benfleet
A 1920s solid brickwork house should never be re pointed with sand and cement. As someone already mentioned this will simply make the damp issues worse. Lime mortar lets the wall breath allowing trapped moisture to expell . The cement will lock the moisture in and it will create damp issues inside. Re point with lime, it will also allow for movement and prevent cracking.
Answered15 June 2026
0

M&M Builders

No reviews yet

Lochgelly
1 to 1 with some upv glue
Answered23 June 2026
0