Cracks appearing in newly laid ceramic tiled bathroom floor
Anonymous user 23/02/2024 - 2.46 PM
I live in a Victorian house (built 1870). I had my bathroom gutted and a totally new bathroom installed from scratch, 10 months ago.
I was assured that although the wooden floor was very springy, a ceramic tiled floor would not be a problem. Floor size is approx. 9ft x 10ft - joists are about 17” apart.
The plumber laid ply (about ½-inch thick) over the floor, and used a levelling compound in the small area in front of the doorway.
Flexible grout was used to lay large ceramic tiles (12” x 18”) in a brick pattern.
My bathroom looked wonderful – I have a small size bath, separate walk-in shower and all the walls are also tiled to the floor in travertine.
Now 10 months on, I find that hairline cracks have appeared in the tiles in the doorway – the cracks go over 4 tiles so far. I contacted the plumber a few weeks ago, and he said he could not understand why this has happened. He has promised to come to discuss it – he hasn’t been in touch yet.
I also should mention that wire under-floor heating was installed. This was laid very unevenly, as in some areas the wire is less than 2” apart and other (less used) areas of the floor have no wire at all. We waited about 8 weeks before switching the heated floor on. It isn’t very satisfactory as there are some hot spots and some areas are always cold.
I chose the plumber because he has an 8 digit registration number – any idea which organisation this could be for? It isn't CIPHE.
My main worry is the floor cracks. I am sure there is no easy solution to this, but I would really welcome any input as I'm not sure what to do next - is it best left alone?
Thank you for reading.
Are you a tradesperson and able to answer this question?
I always use Hardi backer aqua panel or no more ply for my wooden substrate floors. Sounds to me the plumber could obviously tile but the experience of laying natural stone and underfloor heating has failed him. When using travertine you should scratch coat each individual tile with adhesive with the flat part of your trowel this will cover and fill any brittle or un filled parts of the tile and especially because you want underfloor heating. He obviously has not so the stone is weak and the heat from the underfloor heating has made it weaker. If he's not spread out the heating cables evenly this will result in hot and cold spots and I hope he hasn't overlaid the wiring on each other big no no.
Hi
In a bathromm he should not have used ply full stop over a wooden floor. Hardibacker board is the correct method, screwed down at the marked points on the board and a flexible adhesive used.
Answered3 January 2014
2
Anonymous user
No need for excuses here. the builder botched up the job and this the reason you are getting. This might sound strange but tiles offer limited flexibility themselves. the problem is the floor is not solid. He should have at least removed the old floorboard and use 18mm marine ply as a minimum, 25mm even better.
Solution: Whole floor removed and done properly, using above method.
hope this helps
ben
Answered5 December 2014
2
Anonymous user
Chances are that the levelling compound is half inch thick as is the ply, this should not be this thick for one but for two, it probably has not stuck to the old wooden floor and the tiles cracked with movement. Without looking it's hard to say but I would suggest that you will only need to lift the tiles laid on the compound and re support the floor properly and then re lay them. Do you have spares? If not then you wanna hope they come up ok or you may have a huge problem trying to find the same batch number. If you are in Berkshire, Beds, Herts or Bucks we will be happy to come and have a look for you. Regards h2o
You have a lot of issues here unfortunately. Ply is no longer recommended for tiling over due to concerns with `blowing` or delaminating, which is what i believe you have occuring here. It would need Hardi-Backer or other cement board, fixed at close enough centres to eliminate movement.Joists could possibly have needed `nogging-out` to take out some of that movement. Smoothing compound is fine, as long as it is the correct one for the job, (fibre-reinforced), which gives you your required flexibility.The heating mat........? Well, i think you already know the answer to that one.........he`s made a complete lash-up of the installation....Sorry.Not what you want to hear obviously, but it is the case. Hope this helps in some way, Chris.
