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Gas Work Questions
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918 Gas Work questions
i am going to have a new combi boiler installed and i was wondering how much i could fetch for the cylinder and pipework and is worth me selling or letting the trademan taking it.
I have a Potteron Flamingo 50s, that is make a lot of noise when in use, it is reasonable quiet just after it is turned on then after a minute or so the clanking and banging noises start and they are quite loud but the volume does die down over time.
I suspect it is quite old and being in a rented property I doubt it has been maintained properly. I was just wondering if this is something I need to be worried about or is it just normal for a boiler of this type/age?
Also if I did want to get my landlord to fix it what should I be telling him he needs to get done?
Thanks for you help!
we have replaced the gas cooker for an electric one.
the gas pipe has a shut off valve on it which is obviously at the off position at the moment, the problem is with the handle/valve in this position the new oven cannot be pushed upto the wall,
So, Am I allowed to fit a cap onto this and then turn the valve back to the off position so we can put the oven back to the wall, or do I have to get a gas safe man in to do this??
I know its only a 2 minute job and the part costs £2 , but im gunna get stung for it which id rather not!!
would be really happy if someone could advise me,
We are looking at buying a property that has a wall mounted gas fire with back boiler supplying radiator heating and domestic hot water.
The gas fire is not that attractive and due to the back boiler I am guessing we can't just take it off.
What options do we have? Can we replace the ugly fire or have nothing there? What is the cost of this and is it a big job?
I would guess the walls are around 6 metres wide as the dimensions of the lounge and kitchen added together make 5.92m.
I (water) plumbed my combi boiler in myself in 2008 (all new rads with TRV's, mostly new copper pipe throughout house, programmable room stat, I then let the flue through the wall and mortered it in, and connected the condensate drain to the kitchen sink waste). I then Paid a professional Gas fitter to connect the gas and commission it for me. I saw this as a viable, safe approach... I am pretty competent, having a mechanical and electronic engineering apprenticeship background, and made sure I planned the system very carefully with respect for example to radiator sizes, flue position etc... but of course I left the safety-important gas-part to a professional.
He connected gas to the boiler, a new gas hob, and new fire, and tested them all in the same day. He then said I needed to add an earth bonding wire to the gas pipe just after the gas meter, and then he'd certify it all. That was in June 2008.
I had the earth wire installed within days, and emailed him a picture of it, and then didn't hear anything more.
After chasing him several times, eventually last year I paid him for a service to the fire and boiler, on the agreement that I'd finally get my certificate... he issued me a Landlord's gas safety certificate... I assumed that was all I needed.
Now I'm selling the house, and the solicitor has asked for either a corgi certificate, or building regs approval for the boiler installation. I've just been back in touch with the gas fitter, and he tells me he can't now register the boiler with the Gas Safe register, as it was installed four years ago, and the only option is for me to now pay for a local authority inspection.
He never told me in 2008 that the boiler needed registering with Gas Safe (I would have happily paid more at the time for this to be done).
Where do I go from here please? Looks like the money paid to this guy has been somewhat wasted, and now three weeks from moving, I'm up the proverbial creek.
Hello, I recently bought a flat with a gas fireplace which is supposed to be working. I called a Gas Safe engineer to confirm it and show me how to use it and he said it is not in line with regulations and to do so I would need 1) to do a big whole in my wall and put a ventilation grid, so that there is permanently air coming into the flat and 2) fix the plate the closes the liner permanently so that it is always open ( right now I can move it so it closes/opens the liner).
I am really surprised: why would I need to permanently keep the liner open and not just when I use the fireplace? And why would I have to get a massive hole in my wall all year round? I don't want any cold air to come in in winter!
I am confused. May thanks in advance for your advices!
Can I just replace the gas system? I quite light the fireplace like this. If yes, what other gas system would not require me getting a big hole in my wall?
Many thanks again this is really usefull (although I still don't understand why this ventilation must be maintained all year round and not just when we actually use the fireplace!).
I'm doing a job, boxing in a combi boiler and have had concerns about how much ventilation it needs. Its a vaillant eco max combi boiler and have spoke to the guys at vaillant and was informed that as its a combi boiler it doesn't need ventilation, However, they did say there needs to be a minimum of 500mm from the front of the boiler, to the doors that access it for servicing reasons. The problem is this can't be done as the boxing will be massive and will just look utter rubbish in the area it is in. (is this a strict guidline that needs to be stuck to??)
My girlfriend not long ago had a new vaillant combi boiler fitted in an existing boxed in area with door and the space between the boxing door and the boiler is only 200mm and it was fitted by gas safe engineers obviously.
On this job, i can only have a gap of 100mm max and i just can't see why that if its not a ventilation issue and only for servicing reasons, why i can just put some doors on it, and removable shelves below so that it can easily be got at if i ever needs servicing.
the guy i'm doing the job for has left it to my discretion so, obviously i don't want to get this wrong.
Any help would be appreciated.
I recently had an extension built and the plumber, although gas safe registered, failed to issue me with a gas safe certificate for some reason. I didn't notice until I recently tried to have the extension signed off, and appear to have lost the plumbers contact details. Is it possible to have another plumber issue a gas safe certificate (obviously for a fee) ?
he was hired by the agent for my property but is fobbing me off by saying im busy i need to check see if i can give you builders number but never had a problem before i recently found out he is gas regestered but the hse want to investigate his work i have had another heating engineer out today who is refusing to touch it it has been condemend twice and my estate agent is saying just cause they hired doesnt means its there fault that carbon minoxide and gas were leaking into the property but if they hired him shouldnt they have made sure it was safe and if they do have a safety certificate then why was it condemend twice ????? the man in question is gas safe but has just bodged the job i had another heating specialist (proper company not cowboy) who said they wouldnt touch it with a barge pole its that dangerous i had to force them to do something and now the company saying well the man in question never worked for us we just contracted him in so we arent kliable for the work he does meaning i cant do a thing about the company i havre now had to have my house torn apart plaster ripped off floor boards up and i havent been able to live at home for a week i have too kids and the company havent even offered alternate accomadation i have to stay at my mums in a box room with too kids and hse havent came out yet to respond to my 10 emails and 11 phone calls
I believed I had a non service affecting issue with my glow worm boiler, whereby I had been unable to top up the system pressure due to what I had suspected was a faulty part. Heating and hot water was/is working fine but I wanted to preempt a bad situation when it drops below 0.4 bars and goes off! I've had the boiler +2yrs and have topped it up at least 5 times no problem. However, 2 weeks ago I tried to do this and water exploded and gushed out of the disconnector. No matter what position I put the disconnector in, open or closed, I was unable to top the pressure up and water would gush as soon as I opened the taps. It seemed apparent to me that the disconnector was broke.
So I booked an engineer through British Gas Local Heroes and received a call from a local business who explained that there were no call out charges and ANY charges at all would be discussed beforehand so I could choose to proceed or not. Local heroes website also states no call out charge.
Putting aside the initial no show, and him being a few hours late when he did show up the following week, he arrived on site and we established within the first 5mins that there was no issue as he topped up the boiler immediately with no problems. I was embarrassed and apologized for wasting his time. He explained that what had happened was that I hadn't pushed the disconnector up far enough because the locking collar was in the wrong position (I feel I should also mention that he broke the locking collar by accident in front of me and then sheepishly tried to make out that he hadn't - I'm not too concerned though as he is the second gas engineer who has commented on them being redundant, and I was just happy that I could top up the system pressure again). I'm no gas engineer but this logic is flawed for many reasons (one being I've topped it up the same way at least 5 times with no issue - following the instructions) and so a part of me suspects that there is still an issue and he just got lucky/managed to wing it.
He then proceeded to "check my radiators" despite me not mentioning an issue with them and also reiterating that they were all fine. He managed to waste 10mins or so there and had now been on site for 20mins when he "called the office to let them know what he'd done". This was the point when he said that it would be £65! I pointed out he hadn't done anything at all as there was no fault, but he contested that he'd given me advice and topped the pressure up for me.
I have said I am not happy with that and he said I will have to take it up with British Gas. To add to it, the gas pressure is now sat at 2.6 bars and the display is flashing with a water drop icon with a line through it! The heating and hot water is still working fine though.
In any case the fee was cancelled when I mentioned "The consumer contracts and information cancellation and additional charges regulations 2013"