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Anybody use carlite bonding? is it better than sand/cement render

ive recently bought a house that needs full renovation. All the internal walls were black mortar which was crumbling etc so i have hacked it all off back to the stone work. I now want to put a sand/cement render coat on the walls but the plasterer who has quoted on doing the house has said he would not do the job if someone else rendered the walls. Instead of rendering the walls he wants to use carlite bonding and plaster over the top. Does anybody know if this is ok and does it have any disadvantages over sand/cement render. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
Thanks to everyone who replied, your advice is appreciated and taken on board. Thanks again. Keep up the good work guys. Cheers

12 Answers from MyBuilder Plasterers

Best Answer

Never use Carlite on the ground floor level because it acts like a wick and if any moisture is present below the damp course you will be hacking it off again,Its great as a sponge for damp! On the ground floor even if no damp is found i would use a washed sand/cement mix with a waterproof additive just to be on the safe side and you will have no issues.
On the upper floors its fine.But i must confess i hate it and never use it in my remedial works whether its even on the upper floors.
My home is Cementitious plaster from top to bottem and as long as you add good ventilation you wont have any issues.

Mr Chris Harrington: So you would use Carlite on the ground level? Really!
As for non insulating properties i agree but were not looking at insulating and looking to protect!
I find it strange that over the 14 years of working with plasterers in the Remedial Industry weve not had many issues with cemetitious rendering internally and as long as there is adequate ventilation you should not suffer with mould or condensation.

I will agree Dot n Dab is a option though.
Good Luck.

Scott Cannon.

Mr Harrington...If the nearest mortar joint to the floor is injected would we not render past that? Never did i state to the floor! The render and finish would be cut just short of the floor if its a solid floor,if its a timber floor it would be rendered to the timber flooring.
Also if there is a wall floor joint introduced as its a solid floor then the render would not only meet the floor but also come back 300mm away from the wall.

Then again im in the Remedial Industry and your a Kitchen fitter:)


Answered 17th Jun 2011

i agree with AJ........
line your external walls with something like Gyproc Thermaline Plus boards and just normal 12.5mm on internals.
It will be quicker,cheaper and your home will feel a lot warmer as well saving on heating costs.
If you want a good,solid feel to the boarding,make sure plenty of adhesive is used & skim finish with Thistle Durafinish.



Answered 18th Jun 2011

on any external walls its always better to use sand and cement render with a waterproofer added ,carlite is ok for internals ,


Answered 15th Jun 2011

You state the plasterer wont do the job if; some one else renders the walls.
Perhaps he doesnt want to go over other peoples work.
In my opinion the traditional way of sand/cement backing with two coats of multi over is the way to go.
Why does he want to use bonding, instead of browning or hardwall.


Answered 15th Jun 2011

Carlite Bonding is a Gypsum plaster.
Gypsum plasters are a good thing for patching up a damaged wall but the best solution and by far the most durable would be sand, Cement & lime mixed to a ratio of 5 sand, 1 Lime, 1 Cement with a plasticiser to make the render workable.


Answered 15th Jun 2011

Hi there ,
I am suprised the plasterer did not want to use sand and cement . Especially Old brick work , this is because the suction , even when sealed with a slurry or P.V.A mix . Gives the plasterer an easy skim coat with muilti-finish.
Carlite Bonding is a backing coat i grant you , but most plasterers would prefer to use hardwall instead of bonding . Carlite bonding is courser and design for use on plasterboard , and basically any background. Which can mean setting times can vary . Being of the old school ways , you cant beat float and setting with sand and cement. The walls will be solid and fixing things to them , will be easy.
Always here to help
R. Carrigan


Answered 15th Jun 2011

Do not use carlite bonding this plaster is for smooth non porous surfaces ,sand and cement is ok but i would recommend carlite hardwall this plaster is made for brick work and will not crack like sand and cement can if you have problems with damp
sand and cement is better ,do not use bonding this is wrong


Answered 15th Jun 2011

If your plasterer wants to use bonding to coat all the internal walls get another plasterer, even if someone else has rendered them. If the walls are stone, a scratch coat of cement render to seal the walls followed by a floating coat of render to make them flat and straight, followed by a skim coat (in two coats) will make your house as good as new.
There are several solutions you may want to get quotes for like board and skim, or using carlite browning or limelight as a base coat plus skimming.
Put your job on here and get several quotes, you will soon get to know what is what because they will all sing from the same hymn sheet.
Good luck


Answered 15th Jun 2011

Aj plastering your not supposed to dot and dab insulation boards , this could cause problems . . . .


Answered 11th Aug 2011

Rendering internal walls can lead to condensation problems as it does not have the same insulation properties as carlite bonding or carlite browning.
If you are back to brick why not dot and dab the walls then 2 coat skim finish.
If your wanting an hard plaster backing coat use render light or lime light
It is cement based but is lighter than sand and cement and has the same insulating properties as bonding/browning but is not as cheap about £10 ish per bag.
Hope this helps
Chris Harrington

Mr cannon at no point did I say I would use bonding or browning on any of the walls just pointed out that render is cold on internal walls and without adequate heating and ventilation can lead to surface moisture problems.
Also why would you plaster below the Dpc that would bridge the damp course leading to more problems.


Answered 16th Jun 2011

IF the walls are clean,why not "stick"(known as dot/dabbing) plasterboard directly onto the wall? The plasterer must be old school as Hardwall is the new Carlite,and is as good as sand/cement,You will not find many tradesmen "finishing off" something that has been started by another tradesman,


Answered 15th Jun 2011

Hi, just a pointer - if all paster is taken off the external walls then thermal upgrading will be needed to meet building regulations and also will help with warmth/cost etc.

Few ways to do this but easiest is to buy 50mm rigid insulation that is bonded to 12.5mm thick plasterboard which is stuck onto wall with plasterboard adhesive.


Answered 15th Jun 2011

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