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Carpentry & Joinery Question
Is it possible to repair wood door frames. someone has taken the doors off one side of some frames and hung them on the opposite side leaving unsightly holes where the old hinges etc. were.
If you are not a dab hand at carpentry and so not able to cut little pieces of wood to fill the holes...and you don't want to call a carpenter to do the job...there is another solution!
I'm a painter and decorator and use this product a lot: repair care dry fix and dry flex.
This stuff isn't cheap compared with other fillers, but you've saved money not calling in a chippy and you'll be able to get excellent results yourself that won't shrink and crack revealing where the hinges used to be!
It's a resin that is mainly for restoration purposes on decayed wood. However, as a decorator I don't only use it for that. I use it for many more purposes when doing the preparation.
There are 2 products: Dry fix and Dry flex. Dry fix is a liquid that is applied to the decayed wood to harden it. Dry flex is the resin filler to make good the wood.
When I use it as a filler on sound wood I don't waste money using the dry fix wood hardener, as I don't need to strengthen already hard sound wood. Such as, the repair that you need to do on your frames.
Dry flex outperforms any other filler in particular situations and I have about 20 different types of fillers that I use. Some fillers are just too hard, like 2 pack wood filler, some are too powdery and will crack etc.
So, if I were filling the holes in the frames where the hinges have been removed I would mix up some dry flex and use filling knives to fill the holes.
You can play with it a lot until you get the shape right (it reminds me of a firmer version of 'Slime' that I loved soooo much as a kid!)...but if you struggle to fill the hole perfectly in one go...wait until it cures and put on another little bit to achieve the perfect shape. Rather like icing a beautiful wedding cake...it's easier to build up the icing than to scape off too much afterwards!
The product comes in 3 versions:
Dry flex 1 cures in an hour and is for holes up to 1 cm.
Dry flex 4 cures in 4 hours and is for holes up to 2 cm.
Dry flex 16 cures in 16 hours and is for much larger holes.
I recommend no 4 and no 16. No 1 goes start to set on your filling knives very quickly so you don't get much play time...not good for beginners!
It's not easy to find in shops apart from decorating trade shops, like Leyland and Brewers. You can order on line and surprisingly Amazon sell it!
Have fun but don't get it on your skin.
Answered 6th Dec 2012
As Val;entines Refurbishments have stated above, you can piece in timber sections, then fill with chemical 2 pack filler, easy to sand by hand.
You can also use Window Care Resin (Dry Flex) Dry Flex 4hr & 16hr cures in the times as stated at 20degrees, but remains tacky, very difficult to sand, not suitable to be sanded by hand, was originally manfactured for refurbishment and restoration works not as a general filler but can be used in the correct instances.
The product if you read the technical spec is not meant to filled coat on coat, but to be filled very slightly proud of the surface in one application with plastic/metal filling knives, allow to fully cure, at this time of the year Nov/Dec 24 to 36hrs can pass before fully cured. Prime area to be repaired with appropriate primer using disposable brush and mixing cup, Wear Gloves, Do Not Get On Skin
(Sander dust should be like fine talc) Ensure an appropriate mask is work, (air fed) if possible. Use wipes to clean tools.
We have been using these products for the past 18yrs since they first entered this country from Holland.
If you require any further info, contact Allan email@example.com
Answered 8th Dec 2012
you can splice in timber sections to fill the holes made by the hindges,locks etc or use something like Ronseal wood repair system its a 2 part system sands down easily used this system several times and it works well
Answered 6th Dec 2012