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Central Heating
Powermax Question - Curiosity from an engineer!
Anonymous user 6 February 2020 - 10.11 PM
Before anyone asks...its due to be replaced...however until then... ...it seems to have a metallic rattle when it tries to ignite and it also takes a period of time with the fan on before it ignites. On my limited general/electrical engineering knowledge, could the electrode gap need checking which would be the likely cause for not initially firing (i.e. wrong gap and incorrect mixture inside the burner?) and would the metallic rattle be the turbulator which has probably disintegrated? Bearing in mind the water scale inhibitor probably has never been replaced by the previous owner...also due to be changed! NB: DHW and CH working ok once it does fire up! Would love to get an answer even out of curiosity as I know no one wants to touch these and the engineer who did come and have a look under the insurance said they'll condemn it as its B.E.R
3 answers from MyBuilder tradespeople
Hi I would recommend that you check the fan for the rattling noise, it is a common problem with old fan blades to be touching the fan body as it starts to spin. Usually the plastic grommets which the fan motor sits on the fan will wear down and cause the rattling noise due fan blades touching the fan body. This issue will cause the fan to spin slower which in turn cause the air pressure switch to activate much later hence why the ignition is taking longer to ignite. I wold also check the spark electrode and detection electrode are checked and cleaned. Once the boiler ignites then you would need to check your usual gas/air mixture checks. Hope this helps and good luck
Answered
7 February 2020
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Anonymous user
I would think it is the turbulator rattling due to lack of service as these are supposed to be replaced every two years I think you could be right with the slow ignition possible electrode dirty or wrong size gap
Answered
7 February 2020
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Anonymous user
To eliminate poor ignition I'd advise to check the H/T and flame rectification leads for continuity and visually inspect for possible short to anything (usually if listen carefully you might hear the spark being erratic) also check the spark gap on electrode, I personally use a pound coin ( 4mm is commonly recommended by manufacturers) the coin should just be touching both probes at ignition point, also visually inspect the rectification probe, if not cured then you would need to complete a series of tests , gas rating , then by using a telegram( combustion anyliser) and if required adjust gas valve to manufacturers specifications, this should cure any ignition issues.
Answered
20 February 2020
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