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A new foundation for laying a block paved pathway?

My independent mother has employed a building firm to lay a block paving path from her back gate to the back door of her house. The guys have dug a trench and then laid a waterproof liner over the soil, then in filled with sand which the blocks have been laid on top of. I have since researched how a block path should be laid and can find no references to a waterproof liner. I’m wondering if this is a new way of laying the path? There are other problems that need addressing with a drain at the house end that quite clearly is not laid effectively to drain the water into the drain.. I just need confirmation that the way I’ve described the foundations of the path are correct or even a new way from what I’ve seen on line many times over.
Cheers for your answers, I’ve since spoke to one of the fellas that did the job, he’s confirmed it’s waterproof.. the path already looks like an old London road.. only being laid just over a week ago.. 🙁

14 Answers from MyBuilder Driveway Pavers

Best Answer

hi when it comes to installing any block paving be it a drive path or patio the area should always be excavated to a depth of 9 inches then MOT type 1 hardcore sub-base laid to a depth of 5 inches levelled and compacted next laid on top of the sub-base a good quality weed suppressant membrane then sharp sand laid to a depth of 2 inches levelled compacted and screeded then finally blocks laid to desired pattern and finally compacted with wacker plate and dried kiln sand swept into joints

If these builder's haven't laid a appropriate sub-base before laying blocks you will have a sinking and unlevel path very soon and as for a waterproof liner I have never heard anyone doing this before and I wouldn't personally recommend it as if it is waterproof well when there is a substantial amount of rain fall this will cause problems for water drainage as water will naturally soak away through block paving but if there is a waterproof liner there this will prevent that in my opinion I would be getting in touch will these builders myself

2019-08-20T09:20:02+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

There are different ways of doing it

2019-08-20T09:20:02+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Absolutely not ,they should have dug it out ,put down hard core whacked it,you then can put down a liner ,and the sand then over the top screened and whacked again ,then lay the block and sand it and whack it again,sounds like yet again shoddy work practice,and another person who's been ripped off

2019-08-20T09:20:02+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Regarding the membrane are you sure it was waterproof membrane and not weed control membrane should be used to prevent the growth of weeds.
In my opinion, following your description, a waterproof membrane should not be used otherwise the sub base the blocks are sat on is liable to get waterlogged and wash away as water cannot drain away causing instability of the blocks which should always have a good fim sub base before being laid.

2019-08-20T15:00:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

They should dig out the soil put down a subbase then put down a membrane for weeds then sand and then lay the Paving

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Hello the should not be a water proof sheet underneath but you can use a permiable weed blanket then a layer of mot type 1 hard core base then followed by the sand screed layer and finally block work hope you find this usefull

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Hi it needs dug down membrane and subase windust and then monoblock put down on a level and back from the house with a gap for drainage

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Providing there’s at least 100mm of hardcore and then a membrane that should be permeable so the water can go through then concrete sand on top of the membrane then lay the block paving,plastic lining isn’t a good idea for membrane .

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Oh my.. Hats off for the trench..
The base on the dirt should be hard core. 4”
No need for the liner, less it was going to be a concrete base.
Hammer level with wacker plate,
2”approx sharp, then slabbed, to run the drainage

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

I would lay the membrane on top off the soil then lay 70mm of type 1 then 30mm off sharp sand then lay the blocks making sure that any drains are running the right way and connected correctly.

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Hello firstly should of put stone ,rubble or mot under first and compacted so that the path doesent sink which may of happened .Secondly are you sure it is waterproof membrane and not a weed barrier which is semi permeable membrane .Because if it is waterproof membrane it will not let water permiate ,which will cause problems aswell .

Karl (KDR)

2019-08-20T09:20:03+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

A waterproof membrane is not needed but a weed barrier should be used then a minimum of 100mm of hardcore then sand and blocks

2019-08-20T11:40:02+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Hi the existing path should of been dug out at 200mm, type1 stone and compaction to follow at 100mm. Then either 40mm or 60mm sharp sand screed off ready to lay the blocks.

2019-08-20T22:20:02+01:00

Answered 20th Aug 2019

Once dig out to 240mm you should lay in a geotextile terram to reinforce the structure and reduce contamination. This however should be porous and not waterproof. You should then backfill with a type 1 sub base and compact that to a 150mm. You should then level out sharp sand and compact with vibratory plate. You then screed the sharp sand to correct levels and fall at approximately 40mm. Once you have completed this you can then lay your blocks

2019-08-22T14:25:02+01:00

Answered 22nd Aug 2019

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