Kitchen Fitting Question

Kitchen fitting help!

Hi - looking for some advice in fitting my kitchen myself. I would consider myself reasonably competent but found myself scratching my head a few times over the weekend.

I have a fairly simple kitchen layout, a straight run of cabinets with a standalone cooker in the middle of the run. I spent the weekend trying to fit the first run of cabinets consisting of a 400 wide base, and a pre-made 800 wide base (drawers), plus corresponding wall units (but 400/600 wide). So these are my questions - all advice gratefully received! I plan to fit the units myself and then get a chippy in for the worktops. Fitting a Magnet kitchen.

-Datum line - I'm reading conflicting advice about whether to take the datum line from the highest or lowest point from the floor. I took the highest point so that the integrated dishwasher would definitely fit. But can this throw the kick board out of line? is there a right and wrong approach, which is preferred?

- Are the end panels load bearing, or can they be raised off the floor slightly? I set the height of the base units and got the two joined together and level against my datum line. But with the end panel resting on the floor, there is a gap between the top of the base cabinet and the top of the panel. I guess the floor isn't perfect here? So should i lower the cabinets (and redraw my datum line) or lift the panel a few mm off the floor to sit flush with the top of the cabinet?

-Do I need to secure every base unit to the wall? In this short run (400/800) i was fitting yesterday, the pre-made 800 unit had no access to the services gap from the top, so i couldn't put an L bracket within it to the wall- should i fit a small one on the outside where the end panel would fit? The 400 unit was secured to the wall by L brackets in the services gap but still didn't feel as solid as I thought it would - is this normal? Does the weight of the worktop (oak) stiffen things up?

- Wall units - Is it correct to only attach the wall units by hanging them with the adjustable brackets at the top, and nothing else. With just the brackets, they didn't feel as stiff/solid as I'd hoped. So I am considering having an L bracket at the bottom to secure to the wall totally. Is this recommended or should i stick with the adjustables?

- Finally - when building the cabinets I took great care to make sure they stayed square, but when fitting the base units against the wall they seem to skew slightly which makes me worry about fitting the doors later - how can i make sure they don't do this? Spacers?

Sorry for the long post - been running round my head all morning!


1 Answer

Hi there. Regarding your unit height, as long as your floor isn’t running drastically. We’re talking inches not mm’s then I tend for allow my top of unit height to be in the middle of the floor levels. Usual height for units is 870mm so 910mm with a 40mm top. Howden’s are 890mm/930mm. I’m not sure on magnet. This means that one end may end up 880 and the other 900 (if your floor runs 20mm). Obviously if you put a datum around (I use a laser) pencil line is fine, you can then measure where any appliances go (height wise) there is usually plenty of scope.
Regarding fitting the units to the wall yes ideally I fit them all to the wall as to each other (where applicable). Solid worktops will help a bit but I would still prefer solidly fitted. The fixings to the wall will depend upon the wall (solid or stud) and access. Usually a l bracket works, sometimes you can screw the back direct (solid backs). Sometimes it means fittingthe l bracket, marking, removing the unit to prepare wall and then re-fitting the unit. Regarding units twisting I always plumb the fronts, this may mean packers behind the units or some planing off the bottom of the back of units (depending on level of wall). End panels if decorative are there for show and not usually load dependant (unless as support panel) they usually come plenty tall enough (howdens 910 for 890 unit) to allow trimming. Usually the flooring (tile or wood..etc would go under the decorative ends giving more room as well.
Wall units hang fine on the brackets assuming you have good fixings. Solid walls ideal. Plasterboard need special fixings or noggins. Some units (howdens) have a back rail at the bottom for fixing also, but this is more to prevent them lifting up or off. You could fit a l bracket underneath this would be fine. I also make sure all wall units are fitted together as well as hung to wall.
Hope this helps.
Ps you will usually trim your plinths to suit the floor level and usually the flooring will go under as well meaning you will have plenty of plinth width to use.

Answered 20th Jul 2018

Armada Builders

Member since 12 Jul 2018

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