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Gaps in plaster at skirting boards and door frames
I've recently had a room skimmed and the plaster around most door frames and the odd skirting board has random gaps. So the plaster is seamless up to the doors and skirts, but there's these random 'holes' on the edge of the door frames etc.
An example image is here as it's difficult for me to explain what I see.
Granted, my wall in that pic is bowed, but I'd still expect plaster to meet the frames fully.
To me it's not been finished properly, as I expected to just let it dry and then crack on with misting and emulsioning it. As soon as I noticed the gaps (I wasn't there to check work quality prior to the plasterer's leaving), I called them up and they said it's normal, stick a mist coat on it and they'll return to patch up any other problems on the walls as well as fill the gaps around the doors and skirts.
Is this normal procedure when having walls skimmed, or am I right to be concerned about quality?
Thanks in advance
Yes if you give the edges of the door frames a rub down with sand paper first , plus around the skirting boards to , then use a tube of Decorators caulk, when you cut the nozzle on top of the tube cut it side ways so it's on an angle.
Answered 9th Nov 2017
Hi. Yes 'The plaster re-skim'
It does have its limitations, notably that its not the 'finished product' its percieved to be and sold as such.
As you have mentioned, a mist coat ( with paint for new plaster) is a good first stage to the preperation prior to decoration.
This will highlight other imperfections. Minor ones can be dealt with by a light covering of filler ( easifill works best on new work like this)
I havent seen your photo but i can conjure up many examples in my mind from experience.
Very small gaps can be caulked but caulking tends to not finish level to the surface so again fill using easifill, you need to fill up these gaps with filler, i use flexible filling knives that help this.
You can then sand flush.
If you used paint for new plaster then it should abrade with the filler.
Mist coat again ( the filler will be highly absorbent like the new plaster) and try when dry to check it over visually in natural light and also feel with your fingertips that all is smooth and level.
You can caulk along the edges of the frames and skirtings, a thin bead smoothed out ( cut the nozzle accordingly) this can help with any slight movement (expansion) where the two materials meet
Answered 9th Nov 2017
Some times walls are to bowed to skim completely flat and require more work. If in this situation it's best to skim to the skirting boards rather than put the skirting boards on afterwards. But usually this is where decorators caulk comes in as plaster can only be built out so many mm's
Regards JT Plastering
Answered 11th Nov 2017
hi, first of all surface should be flat, the main reason is that light doesnt bend and walls and ceilings should be flat, if you replace and ames tape gyproc( fill and tape ) then this achieves a flat surface that can then be painted. if you were going to use a reflective paint material like a vinyl matt, which a pro would use, or satin eggshell, soft sheen etc then the surface will have shadows if not entirely flat.a quick way to tell for a painter anyway is to lightly run your hand over surface as you can pick up if there are bows in surface, another way is to darken room and shine a torch from corner of surface to see if its flat, if it isnt i would use a flat matt, which absorbs light, and will minimize shadowing. if i got plastering done, even the skim coating i would expect to get a flat surface. so many times this is not achieved and customers cant get the finish they require. imo the plasterer should check surface to make sure this is achievable before starting, any decent one would, as sometimes this is not achievable with a skim coat ie old lathe that has bowed over the last 100 yrs. then wall would have to be replaced with gyproc. could go into greater detail, as im a decorator with over 30 yrs experience lol. hope this helps.
Answered 12th Jan 2018