Ask a tradesman
New en-suite in ground floor flat
I am looking at having an en-suite installed in the master bedroom.
Width of 1.2m and length of 2.5m
Details are below, but my main question is how I should go about doing it. Will the electrician/ plumber be able to self certify their work, or do I need to get permission from anyone apart from the freeholder? (which I have already received)
The property is a ground floor flat, there is a 4-5 foot void beneath the floorboards which will make running the necessary pipework straightforward.
Having just had central heating installed, the plumber has laid cold and hot water pipes to the location where the ensuite will be.
The en-suite will be against an external wall, so an extractor fan can be fitted by the electrician.
However in terms of the waste flow, the existing bathroom is about 15m away from the current soil stack, with the given space underneath, would it be possible to run a waste pipe at a gradient to the current soil stack, or would I need to create a new sewer connection. (Saniflo are out of the question as I hate them; noise, breakdowns, etc). If I would need a new sewer connection, is this via the plumber I employ, or would I need to gain permission/ someone else to fit it.
Lastly, in terms of the partition walls, are there specific requirements in regards to these, as I was hoping to use 69 x 44 mm PSE, and sound insulate the void.
Your advice about the issues, and how I would progress in regards to it are much appreciated!
3 Answers from MyBuilder Bathroom Fitters
Hereford • Member since 9 Dec 2011 • 2 jobs, 100% positive feedback
We're designers with practical skills rather than straightforward trades so we come at this from a slightly different angle; ie that the objective is not to use this or that plasterboard but to create a functional, attractive living space that you're going to be happy with. Therefore, if you haven't already done so, sit down and draw up a 1:20 scale plan and plan out the space to achieve balance between all your fittings and avoid cramming. Next, make up at least two sample boards with combinations of paint colours and tile samples etc, because otherwise you'll probably struggle and end up with beige which, in a small room, can feel a bit like sitting in a bowl of porridge.
To deal with your technical questions in the order in which you have raised them:
1. electrical work involving cabling will need to comply with Part P of Building Regulations. You won't need to notify the Building Control Officer to comply with Part P if you employ a contractor who belongs to either the N.I.C.E.I.C, E.C.A or other accredited service scheme. The accredited contractor will notify their accreditation service of the notifiable electrical work completed and the accreditation service will then notify the relevant Building Control Officer of all notifiable works carried out in his area (normally on a monthly basis) who will then inform you that he has the required notification. You must receive from the contractor or electrician a Minor Works Certificate if the work entails a replacement part or an alteration of a circuit;
2. plumbing work does not require self-certification unless there is gas or connection to an electrical heating source involved, although your work may fall within Part H of Building Regulations (drainage and waste disposal). In these cases, a plumber without accreditation can do the work but Building Control would need to approve it. Generally, electrical and plumbing work in a bathroom will go hand in hand because of the need to earth pipework.
3. the soil pipe: from the information is given, it's difficult to say - we'd have to see it. 15m is a long run but with, such a large void, it sounds feasible. If you need to make a new sewer connection, you will need permission from the freeholder as the connection will be beyond the area you lease. Unfortunately most freeholders take these applications as an opportunity to make a charge but the principle of consent is not normally an issue according to the terms of most leases. The sewer connection could be effected by the plumber.
4. the partition walls: we're wondering why 69 x 44 mm PSE? You don't need to use planed timber. The technical half of Handmaiden tells me that 75 x 50mm (3" x 2" sawn timber) is appropriate, with 12.5mm plasterboard and don't forget that the floor needs to be 18mm water resistant ply if you have a timber floor.
Hope this helps.
Answered 12th Dec 2011
Blackpool • Member since 12 Nov 2010 • 10 jobs, 100% positive feedback
you would be better off hiring a firm off my builder that carries out and organises all the work from start to finish and doing it this way would probably work out cheaper and quicker than using individual tradesmen and if any problems are encountered along the way you only have to deal with the one person rather than other tradesmen blaming each other should any faults occur
Hope this helps
Answered 11th Dec 2011
Boston • Member since 25 Oct 2011 • 87 jobs, 100% positive feedback
a plumber will deal with all waste ,soil ,and water issues .an electrician will certificate wireing. 100mm stud walling is usual to allow for door casing etc get a builder in to assess and quote .
Answered 9th Dec 2011
Post your job to find high quality tradesmen and get free quotes
- All Questions
- Architectural Services
- Bathroom Fitting
- Carpentry & Joinery
- Carpet & Lino
- Central Heating
- Chimneys & Fireplaces
- Conversions - General
- Damp Proofing
- Demolition & Waste Clearance
- Fascias, Soffits & Guttering
- Gas Work
- Groundwork & Foundations
- Hard Flooring
- Kitchen Fitting
- Landscape Gardening
- Loft Conversions
- New Builds
- Painting & Decorating
- Restoration & Refurbishment
- Security Systems
- Tree Surgery
- I live in a ground floor flat (with concrete floor). I want low level wall lights installed in the hall, about 4 off. Is this an easy enough job to do?
- Damp in ground floor flat - flat feels cold with damp air
- draughty floors in first floor flat
- Mould on clothes/textiles and furniture, and muggy air in ground floor flat?