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Advice - capping gas outlet for fireplace removal.
Firstly, to save everyone a lot of time - I am not Corgi/gas registered and have NO INTENTION OF DISRUPTING OR MODIFYING THE GAS PIPE MYSELF. This will be done by a registered professional. Sorry if this is a bit long winded, I want to cover my whole investigation so far to save suggestions covering what I have already ruled out!
I'd like for this thread to be of potential help to others as well as myself and 300 replies saying "use a corgi fitter" for every thread I have seen so far has not been helpful to me!
My issue is this. I am removing a wood burning fireplace in order to have the hearth and fireplace surround redesigned. However, this necessitates doing something with the old (capped) gas outlet, which sits proud of the floor and is in the way. This needs to be cut back and capped, but the gas pipe goes vertically down and then under the living room floor. There is very little vertical room to play with so the capping will have to be done on the horizontal/under-floor section of the pipe.
The gas pipe is the threaded type (sorry, I'm not sure if there have been any advancements in gas pipework since the house was built as I don't do anything involving gas!). I have looked at the lie of the gas pipe and it runs from the meter under the house and tees-off to the cooker supply then goes to the fireplace at the other end of the house. At no point is the pipe even slightly accessible at the tee piece (capping here would be preferable to me) without ripping half the recently fitted kitchen or the staircase out and digging under the floor there... its simply not an option.
Essentially, I am left with the one option: to cap it under the floor on a horizontal somewhere near the fireplace.
So, my question... how much floor around the pipe would have to come out in order to give a gas fitter enough access to cap the pipe? he'd have to obviously cut the pipe and then I assume thread it... I'm not sure how compact the threading tool is, or if there is another way to cap the pipe?
I'd also like to say that the gas will be shut off while I am excavating around it (I can live without a cooker for a week or so) and not be switched on until the gas is properly capped and tested, so in the event that I were to somehow rupture a pipe there is no risk of any gas leak. I am an experienced handyman and DIY'er and have no qualms about the non-gas side of the projected work.
Thanks in advance for any assistance!
3 Answers from MyBuilder Gas Engineers
In answer to how much space you'll need around the pipe, I would say 2-3 inches all around the pipe would be enough as the hand threaders are compact but still a little bulky in tight spots. This would also provide enough room for a recip blade to cut the pipe. The alternative is to run a new gas supply to the other appliances and just cut the old disused pipe under the floor. That would future proof you to underfloor leaks too if a concealed surface run was possible.
Answered 10th Aug 2013
You cannot ask Gas Safe installers how to accomplish this work even though your intentions may be good. We cannot coach the public on an open forum on such matters. You will have many Gas Safe installers in your area, ask their advice, most will be happy to offer their experienced opinions and quote for the work FOC.
When the public post theoretical questions regarding breaking into a gas way alarms bells will begin to sound. So with respect please act responsibly and seek professional/competent advice in person!
If i were to quote for this work based on the information you have supplied, expect to pay £150 to £200 all inclusive.
Answered 10th Aug 2013
If by threaded you mean malleable iron or steel pipe then the vertical pipe will go down to an elbow (threaded) you will have to expose it around the elbow if its in a solid floor, then the fitter can insert a threaded bung or cap into the elbow this should be a straight forward job to any gas fitter..
Answered 18th Apr 2015
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