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3,122 Electrical questions

Electricity tripping the main fusebox

For the last two weeks my electricity has been tripping the main fuseboard.
It can happen at any time of the day or night, sometimes multiple times a day, then it can go a few days with no problem, but more often that not it's happening during the night.
Have tried fault finding by switching off certain appliances, but i'm still none the wiser.

Are fused spurs needed for under counter and built in appliances?

I've been told fused spurs are no longer needed for under counter and built in appliances and it would be better to run these off sockets located in an adjoining cupboard, is this correct?

Electric light re-wiring

Hi can anyone help, trying to fit a new ceiling light. I took down the old fitting and have 4 wires. 1 black wire, 2 black wires together, 3 red wires together and an earth wire. The new light fitting has the L N E. I have fitted the new light using a terminal, the light comes on but will not switch off. I have matched the 3 red live wires to the brown live wire in the terminal. i have matched the 2 black neutral wires to the blue neutral cable. earth to earth. this leaves the single black neutral wire in the terminal with no cable the other side. My question really is why won't it switch off?

How to fix a tripping shower?

When switching on our shower to the hot switch it cuts off and trips the electrics and we have to switch the circuit unit to "up" again. Can you help please.

what size cable and breaker?

Hi all.
I am going to be fitting an induction hob in my new kitchen and was wondering if anybody could tell me what size cable and breaker it will need?
The Hob is a 240v, 7200 W NEFF, the cable length will be around 10m.

I have a light spuring off a plug socket (via a fuse). What size cable would I need to run from the fuse to the lights please? Would it be normal lighting cable or ring main cable?

Would I need any specific lights - I'm just worried that I'd have a greater voltage running through a socket spur compared to the lighting ring, so I didn't want to risk blowing the lights?

Thank you in advance.
Newman21

My light fuse keeps blowing off, i have changed it once but fuse has blown again, all other things like hot water, heaters etc are fine..

Is it ok to have a cooker switch/socket box 70cm above an electrical hob?

Hi everyone.

We have just bought an old terraced house to rent out where the kitchen needs ripping out, we have kept the layout the same as the old kitchen so as to minimise work/shifting plug sockets etc.

The old kitchen had a freestanding combined electric oven/hob cooker - there was no extractor above, but there is a heavy duty looking cooker switch and socket box above where the cooker is (is it about 70 cm up the wall from the hob/worktop level).

We want to put in a new integrated oven with a recessed into the worktop solid plate electic hob in exactly the same place as before, but we aren't sure if this cooker switch/socket is ok/legal/safe etc to stay where it is or not ie 70cm or so directly above the electric hob?

Thanks for your help, it is much appreciated.

***I have to add that we are not doing the electical work ourselves in any way - to try keep work to a minimum we wanted to leave any sockets etc in the same place - the reason why I posted this query was because, as many point out below, that it would in theory be unwise to have a cooker switch/socket over a hob (electric). But as it was already there situated above the cooker, we wanted to check if this was ok or not.

Thanks everyone for your answers - we are getting the house checked out by an electician for a full safety certificate.***

13A socket fed from 1.5mm twin and earth cable

I have a one double socket fed as a spur direct from it's own 16A circuit breaker in the consumer unit. probably about 12m distance. My question is, does this meet the current standards please?

Fuse Box and RCD protection

About 12 months ago I had a new domestic fuse box installed. This does have a trip switch as an electric shower was fitted at the same time. Recently I have had a new kitchen installed and that required some extra sockets. When their electrician came to sign off the job he said that I had no RCD protection and that the 'tails' were smaller than they should be. I went back to my original electrician and explained all this who says that given that I only have a 2 bedroom house that the tails are quite sufficient - 16mll instead of 25 and earth 10ml instead of 16ml. Is this a fact? I don't want to have to spend out another lot of money if what I have is more that up to standard.

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