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2,906 Electrical questions
I've been told fused spurs are no longer needed for under counter and built in appliances and it would be better to run these off sockets located in an adjoining cupboard, is this correct?
We have just bought an old terraced house to rent out where the kitchen needs ripping out, we have kept the layout the same as the old kitchen so as to minimise work/shifting plug sockets etc.
The old kitchen had a freestanding combined electric oven/hob cooker - there was no extractor above, but there is a heavy duty looking cooker switch and socket box above where the cooker is (is it about 70 cm up the wall from the hob/worktop level).
We want to put in a new integrated oven with a recessed into the worktop solid plate electic hob in exactly the same place as before, but we aren't sure if this cooker switch/socket is ok/legal/safe etc to stay where it is or not ie 70cm or so directly above the electric hob?
Thanks for your help, it is much appreciated.
***I have to add that we are not doing the electical work ourselves in any way - to try keep work to a minimum we wanted to leave any sockets etc in the same place - the reason why I posted this query was because, as many point out below, that it would in theory be unwise to have a cooker switch/socket over a hob (electric). But as it was already there situated above the cooker, we wanted to check if this was ok or not.
Thanks everyone for your answers - we are getting the house checked out by an electician for a full safety certificate.***
About 12 months ago I had a new domestic fuse box installed. This does have a trip switch as an electric shower was fitted at the same time. Recently I have had a new kitchen installed and that required some extra sockets. When their electrician came to sign off the job he said that I had no RCD protection and that the 'tails' were smaller than they should be. I went back to my original electrician and explained all this who says that given that I only have a 2 bedroom house that the tails are quite sufficient - 16mll instead of 25 and earth 10ml instead of 16ml. Is this a fact? I don't want to have to spend out another lot of money if what I have is more that up to standard.
I have had a complete rewire of my bungalow. I now have the plasterers in and i have been told that no conduit has been used to protect the cables in the walls (the channels have been bonded with plaster). Is this sufficient / legal? Thanks
For the last two weeks my electricity has been tripping the main fuseboard.
It can happen at any time of the day or night, sometimes multiple times a day, then it can go a few days with no problem, but more often that not it's happening during the night.
Have tried fault finding by switching off certain appliances, but i'm still none the wiser.
When switching on our shower to the hot switch it cuts off and trips the electrics and we have to switch the circuit unit to "up" again. Can you help please.
Our electrician re-wired the whole flat, gave us an Electrical Installation Certificate and a Schedule of Circuit Details for the Installation, but the Council Inspector tells us that he hasn't registered the part P certificate. We have tried for a month to contact our electrician but he has disappeared.
What can we do now to get the part P certificate? And how is it different from the Electrical Installation Certificate?
Many thanks for your help!
I am going to be fitting an induction hob in my new kitchen and was wondering if anybody could tell me what size cable and breaker it will need?
The Hob is a 240v, 7200 W NEFF, the cable length will be around 10m.
Hi can anyone help, trying to fit a new ceiling light. I took down the old fitting and have 4 wires. 1 black wire, 2 black wires together, 3 red wires together and an earth wire. The new light fitting has the L N E. I have fitted the new light using a terminal, the light comes on but will not switch off. I have matched the 3 red live wires to the brown live wire in the terminal. i have matched the 2 black neutral wires to the blue neutral cable. earth to earth. this leaves the single black neutral wire in the terminal with no cable the other side. My question really is why won't it switch off?
I'm due to move in to a new build flat at the end of August, they were meant to be wired up for electric cookers, but there is no hard wiring point just a double socket where cooker goes, although there is a red cooker on & off switch. Builder has told me just to put a plug on it, but is this safe? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, thanks.
thanks for all your help guys at least now i can get it sorted without being fobbed off :)