Ask a Tradesman
Our expert electricians have kindly agreed to share their wisdom on such topics as indoor and outdoor lighting, certifications and qualifications, rewiring, appliance fitting, electric showers, kitchen installations, extensions, extractor fans and much more.
Answered your question? You can find a reliable and local Electrician in your area today!
2,052 Electrical questions
I have recently started to renovate the kitchen and have a new range cooker. The cable that supplied the old cooker is a 2.5mm^2 which I assume to be 30A. I know that cookers should have a 6mm^2 cable. However after speaking to hotpoint they said maximum load would be 22.3A, from this it seems that the current cable would be capable of the full load.
Can someone give advice on if the current cable is OK? As replacing the cable would be a pain in the **** as the walls have just been replastered.
The cooker is a hotpoint EG902GX
Thanks for all of the responses. I am going to get the cable replaced with some 6mm or 10mm. My logic is 6mm will be ok for now but should the wife want to have an all electric range in the future then 10mm would seem sensible.
Also the circuit is protected by MCB and RCD from a Dual RCD CU. There are also two other on the RCD, the kitchen ring and downstairs lights.
A quick question about the Diversity Factor. I can understand how this would work if the cooker was full electric ie 2 ovens, warming drawer, 4 rings + socket. Then I can see how you would not assume full load.
How does this work when there is only a double oven, as I would assume that there will be times, such as when you turn both on to heat up they will be drawing maximum current? Is this correct or am I missing a trick.
I have been reading (and learning) from the forum but I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to electricity so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I want to run power from my house to my shed and to keep costs down, I intend to do the labour part myself - run the cable (lift the floor in several places indoors and bury under slabs outside) and then get in an electrician in to connect everything up at both ends)
My existing consumer unit (which has an RCD as the main switch) has a spare 20A mcb which could be used. The distance from this unit to my shed is about 20 metres although by the time the cable goes round a few bends, it will probably be a cable lenght nearer 23 or 24 metres.
Is a 4mm sq cable of sufficient capacity for my requirements ie. a couple of power points and lighting?
Can I use normal cable under the floor indoors and then join it to armoured cable (junction box) just before taking it outside?
Can the electrician run the lighting from what I think is called a fused spur or do I have to buy another small consumer unit for the shed? If the latter, should I get one with a 6amp and 20amp mcb?
Is a 20 amp mcb the highest I can go with 4mm cable?
Thanks very much for any help.
I'm due to move in to a new build flat at the end of August, they were meant to be wired up for electric cookers, but there is no hard wiring point just a double socket where cooker goes, although there is a red cooker on & off switch. Builder has told me just to put a plug on it, but is this safe? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, thanks.
thanks for all your help guys at least now i can get it sorted without being fobbed off :)
Can any one change a consumer unit. I currently have rewireable fuses and would like to 10way split load board
my house is very damp, humid and suffers from mould and condensation.
We've been advised by a damp expert to get a new extractor fan for our bathroom (among other things). At present we have a Manrose humidistat extractor fan, that apparently isn't very much use.
I'd be really grateful for some advice on the best type of extractor fan to buy to get rid of condensation and damp air.
Thanks in advance.
We had a range cooker, new trip box by a company I found through Rated People, the electrican has never supplied any paperwork or certificates.
I dont have the name of the electrical as he was sent to do the work by the contractor.
We have tried many times to contact the contractor and have reported them to the company, Rated People but still no certificate or contact.
The work was done in May 2011 and we have been trying ever since to get the paperwork.
Is there anything we can do about it without paying another electrical to certify the work?
I would just like to say a big thank you to all the tradesperson who replied to my problem! You have all been most helpful.
Many thanks to everyone who took the time to reply; all very helpful.
My intent was always to get it ispected by a qualified electrician, anyway, but it was very useful to understand for non-electrical preparation.
My consumer unit does have RCD, and I have
had a new boiler installed relatively
recently. However, presumably it would
not do any harm to have additional
cross-bonding in the bathroom, anyway ?
Many thanks again.
I am about to leave the Royal Navy and have done some electrical courses as part of retraining package.
ECS Health & Safety
EAl Domestic Installer
C&G 2382 17th Edition
C&G 2391 Testing and Inspection
I am after some work experience, coming along to help out on jobs and happy for unpaid work as I am still getting paid by the navy.
I am in Liverpool City Centre and happy to travel up to about 10 miles.
I just need to consolidate my learning and gain experience.
I am a quick, diligent, and trustworthy and am hoping someone can help out.
I have just had my house rewired and the electrician has re-used existing electrical cables / wires is this normal practice?
The 're-used' cables are on an external wall light, which I can see has not been moved or replaced with the one we discussed. The other area is the cooker socket which has the cable surface mounted in a conduit box on the wall feeding from floor to box; I thought this cable had to be 'in the wall' with a feed from ceiling downwards.
Any thoughts / comments?