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2,499 Electrical questions
I recently had my house completely re-wired but after the same tradesmen bodged up on other work around the house, we went our separate ways and i never received an electric certifcate for the work they carried out.
What are my options now in order to obtain one and how much would this cost. I am in a 2 bedroom masionette.
I'm due to move in to a new build flat at the end of August, they were meant to be wired up for electric cookers, but there is no hard wiring point just a double socket where cooker goes, although there is a red cooker on & off switch. Builder has told me just to put a plug on it, but is this safe? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, thanks.
thanks for all your help guys at least now i can get it sorted without being fobbed off :)
Our electrician re-wired the whole flat, gave us an Electrical Installation Certificate and a Schedule of Circuit Details for the Installation, but the Council Inspector tells us that he hasn't registered the part P certificate. We have tried for a month to contact our electrician but he has disappeared.
What can we do now to get the part P certificate? And how is it different from the Electrical Installation Certificate?
Many thanks for your help!
I've been told fused spurs are no longer needed for under counter and built in appliances and it would be better to run these off sockets located in an adjoining cupboard, is this correct?
Many thanks to everyone who took the time to reply; all very helpful.
My intent was always to get it ispected by a qualified electrician, anyway, but it was very useful to understand for non-electrical preparation.
My consumer unit does have RCD, and I have
had a new boiler installed relatively
recently. However, presumably it would
not do any harm to have additional
cross-bonding in the bathroom, anyway ?
Many thanks again.
My light fuse keeps blowing off, i have changed it once but fuse has blown again, all other things like hot water, heaters etc are fine..
my house is very damp, humid and suffers from mould and condensation.
We've been advised by a damp expert to get a new extractor fan for our bathroom (among other things). At present we have a Manrose humidistat extractor fan, that apparently isn't very much use.
I'd be really grateful for some advice on the best type of extractor fan to buy to get rid of condensation and damp air.
Thanks in advance.
I have recently started to renovate the kitchen and have a new range cooker. The cable that supplied the old cooker is a 2.5mm^2 which I assume to be 30A. I know that cookers should have a 6mm^2 cable. However after speaking to hotpoint they said maximum load would be 22.3A, from this it seems that the current cable would be capable of the full load.
Can someone give advice on if the current cable is OK? As replacing the cable would be a pain in the **** as the walls have just been replastered.
The cooker is a hotpoint EG902GX
Thanks for all of the responses. I am going to get the cable replaced with some 6mm or 10mm. My logic is 6mm will be ok for now but should the wife want to have an all electric range in the future then 10mm would seem sensible.
Also the circuit is protected by MCB and RCD from a Dual RCD CU. There are also two other on the RCD, the kitchen ring and downstairs lights.
A quick question about the Diversity Factor. I can understand how this would work if the cooker was full electric ie 2 ovens, warming drawer, 4 rings + socket. Then I can see how you would not assume full load.
How does this work when there is only a double oven, as I would assume that there will be times, such as when you turn both on to heat up they will be drawing maximum current? Is this correct or am I missing a trick.
For the last two weeks my electricity has been tripping the main fuseboard.
It can happen at any time of the day or night, sometimes multiple times a day, then it can go a few days with no problem, but more often that not it's happening during the night.
Have tried fault finding by switching off certain appliances, but i'm still none the wiser.