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2,216 Electrical questions
I have had a complete rewire of my bungalow. I now have the plasterers in and i have been told that no conduit has been used to protect the cables in the walls (the channels have been bonded with plaster). Is this sufficient / legal? Thanks
Our electrician re-wired the whole flat, gave us an Electrical Installation Certificate and a Schedule of Circuit Details for the Installation, but the Council Inspector tells us that he hasn't registered the part P certificate. We have tried for a month to contact our electrician but he has disappeared.
What can we do now to get the part P certificate? And how is it different from the Electrical Installation Certificate?
Many thanks for your help!
Many thanks to everyone who took the time to reply; all very helpful.
My intent was always to get it ispected by a qualified electrician, anyway, but it was very useful to understand for non-electrical preparation.
My consumer unit does have RCD, and I have
had a new boiler installed relatively
recently. However, presumably it would
not do any harm to have additional
cross-bonding in the bathroom, anyway ?
Many thanks again.
I have recently started to renovate the kitchen and have a new range cooker. The cable that supplied the old cooker is a 2.5mm^2 which I assume to be 30A. I know that cookers should have a 6mm^2 cable. However after speaking to hotpoint they said maximum load would be 22.3A, from this it seems that the current cable would be capable of the full load.
Can someone give advice on if the current cable is OK? As replacing the cable would be a pain in the **** as the walls have just been replastered.
The cooker is a hotpoint EG902GX
Thanks for all of the responses. I am going to get the cable replaced with some 6mm or 10mm. My logic is 6mm will be ok for now but should the wife want to have an all electric range in the future then 10mm would seem sensible.
Also the circuit is protected by MCB and RCD from a Dual RCD CU. There are also two other on the RCD, the kitchen ring and downstairs lights.
A quick question about the Diversity Factor. I can understand how this would work if the cooker was full electric ie 2 ovens, warming drawer, 4 rings + socket. Then I can see how you would not assume full load.
How does this work when there is only a double oven, as I would assume that there will be times, such as when you turn both on to heat up they will be drawing maximum current? Is this correct or am I missing a trick.
I have been reading (and learning) from the forum but I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to electricity so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I want to run power from my house to my shed and to keep costs down, I intend to do the labour part myself - run the cable (lift the floor in several places indoors and bury under slabs outside) and then get in an electrician in to connect everything up at both ends)
My existing consumer unit (which has an RCD as the main switch) has a spare 20A mcb which could be used. The distance from this unit to my shed is about 20 metres although by the time the cable goes round a few bends, it will probably be a cable lenght nearer 23 or 24 metres.
Is a 4mm sq cable of sufficient capacity for my requirements ie. a couple of power points and lighting?
Can I use normal cable under the floor indoors and then join it to armoured cable (junction box) just before taking it outside?
Can the electrician run the lighting from what I think is called a fused spur or do I have to buy another small consumer unit for the shed? If the latter, should I get one with a 6amp and 20amp mcb?
Is a 20 amp mcb the highest I can go with 4mm cable?
Thanks very much for any help.
I have just had my house rewired and the electrician has re-used existing electrical cables / wires is this normal practice?
The 're-used' cables are on an external wall light, which I can see has not been moved or replaced with the one we discussed. The other area is the cooker socket which has the cable surface mounted in a conduit box on the wall feeding from floor to box; I thought this cable had to be 'in the wall' with a feed from ceiling downwards.
Any thoughts / comments?
We had a range cooker, new trip box by a company I found through Rated People, the electrican has never supplied any paperwork or certificates.
I dont have the name of the electrical as he was sent to do the work by the contractor.
We have tried many times to contact the contractor and have reported them to the company, Rated People but still no certificate or contact.
The work was done in May 2011 and we have been trying ever since to get the paperwork.
Is there anything we can do about it without paying another electrical to certify the work?
I would just like to say a big thank you to all the tradesperson who replied to my problem! You have all been most helpful.
my house is very damp, humid and suffers from mould and condensation.
We've been advised by a damp expert to get a new extractor fan for our bathroom (among other things). At present we have a Manrose humidistat extractor fan, that apparently isn't very much use.
I'd be really grateful for some advice on the best type of extractor fan to buy to get rid of condensation and damp air.
Thanks in advance.
I wonder if someone can help - I've just had a new kitchen put in and nearing completion. New cooker, new hob and cooker hood to replace older derelicts. Same ring main. I have also had LED lights to replace an old florescent light in the ceiling. I have added additional double sockets to the wall on the ring mains.
My question is, with the recent changes in April this year in mind - do I need any Part-P certification for this? I understand now that the kitchen is no longer a 'special location' room the work will not require notification. Or would a Electrical Installation Certificate from the sparky suffice?