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1,142 Damp Proofing questions
Would a builder know not to put his garden level the same as our garage damp proof course?
So the details are that we've always had a condenser dryer sitting on a wooden pallet for air flow in the garage and often noticed a wet patch on the floor under it. We've always thought it was the dryer leaking somewhere and dismissed it until recently when the dryer died and we decided not to replace it. The wet patches remained.
It wasn't until recently due to pure luck, as we were cleaning out the garage during a massive downpour that we noticed the floor getting wet whilst we were in there. On closure inspection, we could actually see water coming through the garage wall over the damp course layer and slowly trickling down onto the floor. The garage side wall in question is directly on the neighbours side so we looked over the fence to see if we could see what was happening. The neighbour has a greenhouse along this wall, without any guttering and we also noticed that the ground level was in fact level with our garage damp course. Their garden is slightly higher.
The water is hitting their greenhouse roof, coming straight off in Sheets, falling to the ground and draining over our dampcourse and into our garage.
Now our question is, shouldn't a builder know that if he raised his garden, which he did, to the level of an existing buildings dampcourse, it would cause water problems when it rained ?
Personally I would have put a greenhouse gutter on like ours to collect water and an open drainage pipe to send water away. He's failed to do this and we are having substantial water damage to items in the garage.
I have just taken up the floor tiles in the kitchen and removed a bad old layer of leveling compound to reveal red quarry tiles. Where the floor meets the outside wall there is about an inch gap that is filled with some sort of concrete type stuff. This has visible signs of moisture coming through it. How do i go about sealing this and making it damp proof? what is best to use?
I had damp patches on my walls, called out a big damp proof company and they told me i needed a dpc. This was done with a 25 year guarantee. Since the work has been done, I've called the company back out twice due do visable damp patches appearing on the walls. Each time they have said i'm worrying about nothing, and said the dpc is doing its job.
I'm currently upgrading my kitchen, the floor is stripped, old kitchen removed and theres no skirting boards on. Theres a couple places that are visably damp, and the rest looks dry. I borrowed a damp meter to test the walls. and every wall in the house is damp. The meter screams on most walls. surely this isn't right? what steps should i take next? how do i get the company that done the dpc to admit that it hasnt worked?
I have a plasterer booked in, in 9 days time. dont want to plaster if the damp will destroy the new plaster
The damp is on the internal walls.
Will walls, damp from bathroom condensation, continue to be highly damp months after tenants vacate?
A homebuyer's survey revealed high level of damp in the ceiling and external wall of the bathroom. FYI, there's visible water damage (but on a quick viewing we couldn't tell if it was from a leak or condensation).
The seller is insisting the damp is from years of condensation. Would you expect the damp to remain at high levels, even after the tenants have been out for weeks (and hence there's been no showers etc.)?
I have a ground floor end of terrace Victorian flat.
In the bathroom the window wall becoming increasing wet so we fitted in an extractor fan and repainted all the wall as there was also mould near the shower. Now the window wall paint has become cracked/blistered in 3 separate places.
The other issue is the bedroom which is showing mould on top of the skirting's near the window (double glace French window).
Is this a condensation issue or something more serious?
Appreciate your advise.
Kenwood came to treat a patch of rising damp by our front door where it was shown the damp proof course was not effective.
They plastered afterwards and put the plug socket back against the wall (our plug box and wires is on the outside of the wall). They did not glue the box back, just pressed a box up against it to hold it in place.
We've not known this, so when we removed the box, the plug box has come away from the wall, taking the plaster with it.
They are saying this is our problem, and it needs to be fixed by an electrician. But my concern is: is the damp proof course effective now the plaster has been torn away?
Any advice gratefully received.
Hi, I've recently had an old wooden frame (floor to ceiling) removed from a bay window. When the builder removed it, there was nothing between that and the original brickwork. He said at the time he would apply render then plasterboard to make good the wall. In the last few weeks damp patches have come through on our newly painted walls. He now says he put plasterboard straight onto the brickwork as the walls had externally been injected with chemical damp proofing. Is it usual to put board straight onto brickwork or is this considered bad practice? Trying to get my head around why I've paid out to builders and damp proofers but still have damp walls..
We've just bought a maisonette in a Victorian, 5 storey house. When we started decorating we uncovered an horrific brown damp stain (still damp) 0n the chimney breast in the top bedroom (loft conversion). The damp originates from where the breast meets the ceiling and peters out as it goes down- the bottom half of the chimney breast is completely dry. We discovered this brown stained plasterwork after detecting and then pulling down a partition wall that was built about 4 inches away from the chimney breast- all around. We found out that this had been a problem for a while and so finally in 2011 the freeholders spent £7000 on roof repairs to solve the problem and the source was located as flashing failure that and cracks in the chimney breast that were filled and sealed. We had a chimney sweep go up there to pop a rain cap on our chimney pot and he verified this work had been done but that it need a bit of re-flaunching. There was one brick missing in the breast after we took out a vent that was in the wrong place (in the flue from fire in room below which we have just had re-opened and swept ready to start using). Before it was bricked back up I felt inside and it felt drier inside than out.
1. Do you think it's likely that the chimney breast isn't still leaking but just never had a chance to dry out after the flashing failure because the owners were in a rush to plaster it and make it look good again for their tenants- so stain came back through so they drastically put up a wall as a quick fix? And because the bricks were soaked, but then covered in damp plaster and then trapped behind a partition wall with no ventilation (especially as all fireplaces were blocked off)- they just never have had a chance to dry out? The trapped warm, damp air just perpetuating the damp bricks? And now that we've stripped it and opened the fireplace insight of using it to burn logs- it will eventually dry out? If so, how long might this take?!
2) Also there was no heating in the flat for months after the tenants moved out and a new boiler as only just been installed- maybe this contributed to it not being able to dry out?
3)While we wait for it to dry out- what breathable stuff can we put on it to cover it up?! It is ugly patchwork with it's new brick and the dark patch and dusty- and this room was supposed to be our bay's bedroom!
Any advice, information would be gladly received!
When we have heavy rain our gable wall becomes very wet. It is coming from the top of the wall but is not on the ceiling. It covers the alcove and stops at the chimney stack.
We have checked the gutter and they are clean and no roof tiles have moved , does anyone have any ideas?
In the morning my bedroom wall it wet, and the window has condensation. I'm not sure why the wall is becoming soo wet, could some one advise and suggest a solution? We have a terrace which does not have a damp course and needs injecting, would this be leadin to the problem?