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Damp Proofing Questions
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1,076 Damp Proofing questions
I an selling a 200 year old cottage that had damp proof chemical injection and replastering. didnt get garrantee, can this now be covered.
thank you all for replying .
You all work along way from me so .I don't think you would be able to visit .
I like the nuair flatmaster idea and went on their website but would like to know from someone who has used these ?.
I can't dig the earth out from the other side of the end of terace wall as I don't own this land which is a huge pity as that would have been my first course of action .
The gurantees for the damp have finished and 1 firm wanted £90 to even have a look !
I will try and get a local damp proof builder out to see the prolem
I live in a 3 bed semi in an old RAF house and the bathroom mould is driving me insane!!!! I have lived there for a year now and the whole bathroom slanted ceiling over the bath is completely covered in thick black mould, nothing I do to clean will get it off. Also down the long sides of the bathroom has also got it most the way down. The bathroom does not have an extractor fan and the window is cracked from top to bottom on the inside side of the glazing. I am just wondering what sort of tradesman I need to sort. PLEASE HELP :-(
cellar has black rot due to poor ventilation and is under ground level, but has never flooded before. I have had several damp-proof companies come to have a look, and some say it must have sump pump due to BS regulations or something, and others say, no the floor is dry so doesnt need one, just needs p20 membrane tanking system and humidistat fan.Please advise me, it's alot of money to gamble and I dont know who to believe.
thanks a million
Hi, we live in a 1980's timber framed bungalow, we have noticed that there is a damp patch (about 2 to 3 cm deep) around the UPVC front door frame, both sides and across the top.
The door was put in (before we bought it) 12 years ago, the sealant on the inside doesn't look 100% and is perished in places but externally all seems fine,. The door is set back from the front creating a kind of porch, so I'm surprised rain/water can get to it. Any thoughts as to what this could be, was thinking condensation?
hi i have noticed a small area of water seeping into my garage from higher ground on the outside. can the inside of a brick garage be damp proofed to stop this happening long term or do i need to dig and remove paving on the outside three brick high difference between inside and outside.
I have a stone-walled terraced cottage with a slate floor which was laid when the cottage was built in the early 1900s. Water comes up through the slate tiles. Water also comes in between the floor and skirting on the front external wall. The row of cottages was built into a hillside for quarry workers who worked the nearby quarries.
Can anyone recommend any solutions? Is there a special group I can use on the floor to help stop the water coming through? How can I sort out the water ingress at the skirting / floor on the front wall? Would a dpc help? I doubt that anything was installed to address this originally.
All advice gratefully received.
I've just built a single skin block garage and I'm bringing power in underground is it ok to chase through the dpc layer?
We have an outbuilding (3.5 external walls) which we're trying to turn into an office. It's about 150 years old, solid walls and when we moved in there was major damp. We have got rid of all the sources of penetrating damp (overflowing waterbutt, blocked drain, attached brick wall with no DPC). Then we realised the building itself had no DPC after spotting some damp rising up in the corner so we did DryZone injections. 2 months on the problem seems to be gone. We did notice some condensation on the walls the other day, but put it down to the fact that the weather very suddenly heated up (over 10 degrees increase overnight!) and that was not a problem the next time we went into the room. So hopefully we've got rid of the major damp sources but we're still a bit concerned about penetrating damp just because the room is very to the elements with empty land on one side of it that the wind and rain howls accross.
Anyway, now we want to plaster, and, because it's a solid-wall construction with no insulation, we want to plaster using Celotex insulated plasterboard (has a VPC integrated). However, we've seen really conflicting suggestions about how to fix this plasterboard to the wall...it seems we can either:
a) Dot and dab - risks damp coming through the adhesive but quicker and easier, some people say definitely never D&D, others say it's fine. Our plasterer suggested D&D nad he seems good although we're going to do this ourselves.
b) dot and dab using very expensive waterproof dryzone adhesive - will cost more and have read some very mixed reviews - some say it's great (lots of room for air to circulate as you don't form a solid barrier with it), others say it's not (you end up with bouncy walls!).
c) batten with wood battens - but a risk of interstitial condensation which could also rot the wood as well as causing plasterboard problems
d) batten with metal battens - still the condensation risk. And expensvie/more complicated.
Does anyone have any advice about how best to fix our plasterboard to the wall?
Thanks so much...!
Having problems with water coming in below my front and back door and also at the bottom of a wall at the corner of an extension, no idea if it's damp or condensation which is the worrying part, the water seems to be coming off a small strip of cement which the doors have been rested on. The extension seems to be damp along the lower wall in the outer corner closer to the actual house it doesn't seem to be a problem. It doesn't happen all the time and isn't always damp I'm at my wits end does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?