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Log burner installation - please help!
I'm looking to install a log burner I purchased and I wondered if anyone could offer some advice?
I live in a Victorian terrace with an old class 1 chimney and I would like to install a Valor Ridlington 8Kw multi-fuel burner. My questions are:
1. Can I install this myself and pay the local council to send someone round from building control to ensure that this complies with building regulations or do I need to have someone with certain qualifications to install the stove? If so, what qualifications should I be looking out for?
2. If I have the chimney swept, can I just install a debris plate and 1m flue pipe coming from the stove or will this cause problems? If the problems that may be caused are not a health risk, is it an option install the burner and if I find it doesn't work, add a liner at a later date?
3. What are the true requirements of the hearth? The sizes I hear from installers, different websites and the installation manual of my burner, but which is the best to follow? The most sensible sizes I've seen are 150 around the back and sides and 300 at the front, but the installation guide says 600mm!!
4. If I need a liner, would you recommend the 316/316, 904/316, or 904/904? I'm only planning on being in the house for the next 5-10 years max so is it worth spending the extra on a good quality liner? Whatever liner I purchase, can I simply find he cheapest say 904/316 liner or are there good and bad brands of liner to purchase irrespective of the grade of steel?
5. Do I need an air brick, or is this again something that I can install at a later date if I find the drag isn't good enough?
6. If I am to sell the house with the log burner in, what should I officially hand over to the new purchaser to demonstrate that it has been installed correctly?
The installation of a multi-fuel stove seems to be a bit of a minefield - different installers give different information and there doesn't seem to be a website that will give definitive installation advice. What I'm not prepared to do is to spend £1000's installing the burner to try to comply with regulations, only to find I've missed something out as the information on how to correctly install one isn't clear! Therefore, ANY advice would be really appreciated, links to products, websites with information, etc.!
Thanks in advance,
- Yelliotgreen 26th Mar, 2012 Chimneys & Fireplaces
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u 14 Like
My advice is to call your local building inspector and talk to him. There is more rubbish talked on the subject of wood burners and the requirement for liners than almost anything in the building industry. If you give it a bit of thought there is absolutely nothing to stop you lighting a fire in your fireplace and as long as the chimney is sound and safe and you are not in a smokeless zone you should be OK. Why is it that as soon as the word wood burner is mentioned everyone starts throwing liners into the equation. Could it be the fact that the sellers don't make a whole lot out of the wood burner itself but make considerable profits from supplying and fitting liners. Firstly talk to the wood burner manufacturers ( not the people selling them ) and then the building inspector, you could save yourself a heap of money.
- photofinish contracts 25th Apr, 2012
u 10 Liked
In answer to your questions:
1. Yes you can, local building control charge varies but expect to pay around £150.00. Bear in mind it may well require more than one visit as the likley hood of a non HETAS installer getting the work right first time is slim.
2. No, you can't just fit a register plate and pipe with no liner - how are you going to get into the flue to sweep it at a later date? Ideally needs a sweeping hatch putting in to give access - best position is above the plate either on chimney breast or on outside wall where applicable - can be done in the plate itself but this method is listed as a bad example of work in document J and is a nightmare come sweeping time. Also bear in mind that the chimney may not be safe for use without carrying out a pressure test and may require a liner anyway, My advise is fit one regardless, increases the efficency of the appliance, removes the need for a sweeping hatch and pressure test and gives you the peace of mind that you are not pumping fumes into your bedrooms etc.
3. Hearth requirements vary dependant on the stove. 6" either side is preferable, minimum at back is 2" although having more will increase efficiency. Minimum at front is 9" for a stove designed to burn with doors open, 12" preferable. Thickness can be 0 if on constructional hearth with clear defintion, 12mm if stove is certified not to heat the hearth up to more than 100 degrees, 50mm if not!
4. 904/904 all the way. 904/316 is not certified for use in this country and buidling officer won't sign it off, 316/316 is only really intended for wood and coal burning not smokeless fuels - don't forget you will also need adaptor, plate, clamp and protection sleeve for compliance.
5. 8kW stove requires a vent full stop. Will not comply without it.
6. Yes they should be made aware of instructions and sweeping frequencies.
you will also need a data plate & carbon monoxide detector for complaince.
If you are not 100% sure on what you are doing then my advise is to use a HETAS installer, get it wrong and have to redo some or all of it and it will end up costing you a lot more in the long run.
Chimney care and repair.
- Chimney Care & repair Ltd 2nd Apr, 2012
u 6 Like
You need to get someone who is qualified try the hetas site
- PAUL CATON GAS SERVICES 27th Mar, 2012
u 5 Like
Threre were 39 chimney fires in Devon and Somerset in one week in last February's cold snap.
Wood burners have a much higher temperature flue gas than open fires, this combined with wet wood and creosote build up in the chimney there are many reasons
why a liner should be fitted when changing from an open fire. I fit gas/oil/solid fuel liners almost on a weekly basis now, better safe than sorry. I had a lady nearly kill herself with carbon monoxide from a wood stove leaking in an unlined inglenook. The smoke actually filled the mesh holes in rain cap with creosote, the short bit of flue pipe had never been sweept as ther was no access for sweeping through the stove as the draft regulator could not be removed easily.
By the way, HETAS isn't the only body for to notify wood burning appliances, APHC and NAPIT can also notify solid fuel to Building Control.
- Blake Ecotec Ltd 2nd May, 2012
u 4 Like
yes i agree totally with paul caton get some one that knows what they are doing that's why they spent the time and money getting qualified
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