Hi.
Lime mortar basically falls into two main catagories; 'Pure' lime is that which has been produced with no impurities and is reliant on good drying conditions for a 'set' to be acheived (often sold as lime putty)and hydraulic lime is basically the same, but with impurities within the fiished lime in the now, powder form.
This is known as hydraulic lime. As the name suggests, it sets with the additon of water. The higher the 'NHL' number (natural hydraulic lime) the more eminent the set.
When mixing (one part lime to two and half sand-medium to sharp) put some water into the mixer first, then adding sand, lime and finally sand. It is important not to allow the mix to become too dry at this stage, as the lime/sand will ball up. Equally, too much water will not allow the mix to mix thoroughly; you need to acheive a state whereby the mortar is stiff enough to 'lump' round in the mixer, to entrain as much air as possible (without the use of plasticisers). Allow this 'lumping' round for at least 20 minutes. Now add further water to reach the desired consistency. You will probably find that mortar mixed in advance, patted down and covered with wet hessian/tarpaulin will make better quality and more workable mortar when used several days later. This is definately normal practice for mortar made with lime putty for instance, but the same practice cane be used for hydraulic lime mortar providing it is not left too long!
It should be noted that lime putty is the same chemical compound of Hyrdrated lime- NOT hydraulic and can be used as a more economical alternative, although it has to be said that lime putty is richer.
If using NHL 3.5 at this time of the year, then yes use it for repointing. Try and not smudge the arris of the brickwork and consider what is the best finish to compliment any areas that may not need repointing.
Hope to have been of help.
Jason