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491 Questions: Roofing
Hi, I'm building a new garage which will be 21 feet long and 12.6 feet wide, I intend using 6x2 timber at 16 centres for the span (I believe this to be adequate), but what size ridge board should I use and what size would the rafters have to be? Also, do I need to use purlins, and if so what size should they be? The pitch angle will be 25 degrees.
- Yallanwatkinson 23rd Nov, 2013 Roofing
i have had a problem of mould and water forming in two rooms, on the corners of the walls. I live in a semi and the problem is on the joining properties side on the outside walls. I have had a few roofers out to check it over. It started last year and as a result we have had the guttering replaced, felt replaced and nothing has changed.
A roofer has now suggested to put a vented tile over each of the problem areas front and back, I'm just not sure it's going to sort the issue and have had enough of throwing money at it for it to continue. The attic is insulated and have also been told to move it back as it was to close to the edges this has only made the problem worse. Any help or advice would be really helpful.
- Yemish 23rd Nov, 2013 Roofing
Hi, I am a roofer myself, been doing it for 10 years now but mainly slating tiling etc. I work for my dad and because he has so many flat roofs come in, I want to learn how to do the torch on felt with the drips etc. I'm willing to go on a course but it's hard finding a course to go on as I live in Plymouth can anyone help me, just want to learn the basics in flat roofing. Cheers
- Yryan_purdy 20th Nov, 2013 Roofing
Can anyone give advice on whether or not this can be fixed internally - or can I ignore as long as there's no water penetration which there isn't at present?
Can the board be replaced successfully or is this really a case of an outside job lifting all tiles /felt /putting in new boards. Could I get away with fitting something like Celotex board between rafters to do same job? I'm based in Scotland.
- Ydonnie624 19th Nov, 2013 Roofing
I've recently purchased a house and noticed that the ceiling board of the loft dormer is warped and has a crack in the plaster in the middle. When I put slight pressure on the ceiling the board moves up maybe 1/2 a centimeter.
This isn't something that has happened recently, in fact it looks like there are the markings of a previous leak that has been fixed. There is no visible damp around the crack in question.
If I was to replace this board would it be likely a case of just dragging it out and replacing with plaster boards nailing them in the the dormer ceiling battens and re plastering?
It's worth mentioning the board has a vent in the middle but I think this is only venting the cavity between board and membrane/felt... I'm no roofer so I could have got that very wrong. I'm guessing as long as I incorporate a vent into the new board that should be ok?
- Ypaulalde 10th Nov, 2013 Roofing
The external lead guttering between my double hipped roof has got some cracks in it and is leaking through upstairs ceiling. We had the roof re-tiled in 2000 and this lead was replaced then. Should we not have expected more than a 13-year lifespan for this? Also our roofer is proposing to remove the lead and replace it with RubberBond Fleeceback black single ply EDPM waterproofing system carrying a 10 year guarantee. This does not seem very long, particularly as we have to pay for scaffolding up 3 storeys + at a cost of around £2,000.
Please would you advise if this is a good solution, also if the original lead should be removed, and is there no way of repairing it?
- Ygail_crichton 7th Nov, 2013 Roofing
Had my roof refelted and bonded gutter in between mine and next door, lead valley gutter they quoted me for was replaced with another bonded gutter.
They put in a bonded gutter upside down and under the felt, they also said they would replace the valley gutter with lead which they did remove, but replaced it with another bonded gutter (will this be suitable)?
After complaining to the roofers admitting both things were wrong, they said because no dividing wall between me and next door, they could not fit it any other way, and stating if they come out to do repairs will cut my guarantee from 20 years to one, can they do that? So what should I do? Let them repair with the chance it will still be wrong or get legal advice, please could someone give me some advice.
- Ycarole_80 4th Nov, 2013 Roofing
Could anyone tell me how well insulated dorma chalet style houses were in the 1960's? We are considering buying one and are concerned about cold bedrooms. If insulation is required how do you fit it into small roof voids without losing ventilation. Is it necessary to add false ceilings and walls to add extra insulation?
- Yworried_buyer 1st Nov, 2013 Roofing
A leak occurred in the main bedroom quite some time ago we have had some tiles replaced, air bricks added and the chimney (this is the problem area) taken down to below roof level but every time it rains the damp patches are wet. The facia boards need replacing but nobody can seem to see where the rainwater is getting in. Do you have any suggestions? We live in M32 area. Many thanks
- Ybuilder_87 26th Oct, 2013 Roofing
There has been a leak in our roof probably for many years, now that we've taken over we've replaced the roof - re felting, putting new gulleys in and then new tiles, but on closer examination from inside - the 12 x 4 inch plate that runs underneath the central gulley in the roof from the front to the rear of the property looks like it's completely rotted away near the hopper from the gulley and I can't see that it's supported by the wall. How do we fix this? I assume at the moment that all the weight from the roof, and that plate itself is just being taken by the front wall and one wooden internal wall in the middle. Can we strap steel on each side of the plate about 4ft or so and then brick that into the wall? Or is there another solution? thanks for any help. Oliver
- Yoliverrees 19th Oct, 2013 Roofing
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