aAsk a Tradesman

i first noticed large damp patches, water droplets & horrible black mold in all the rooms upstairs, thinking it may be the guttering at fault, i called for some to come take a look, he said the guttering was fine but when he went into the loft he said it was very much like a swimming pool, said he'd never seen anything like it before,was bad condensation needed vents asap, that was a week ago & its a hundred times worse now best part of belongings is ruined everything is wet and cold.. its like living in a fish tank with 3 kids that are begining to suffer..

My builders have recently finished an extension for me. The roof started to leak and on inspection they had found 2 nails were put through the roof by one of their men.The roof is made from a timber frame with mastic asphalt surface and lead flashing They have ' fixed ' this by painting a thick solution over the holes. I do not believe this will work and will cause me future problems. I have not yet completed the final payment for the contract.

how do I get the youngman board to the top of double scaffolding span over conservatory

Hi - will a general roofer be able to install a skylight? Do I need to look for a roofer with a specialised certificate to do this?

The existing flat roof needs insulation and refelt/replacing. In terms of timeframe, how long would this take?

Thanks.

Our bedroom could be 18 ft x 18 ft if not for the slanting roof from the middle of bedroom-making half of the room an eaves space.We are planning to raise up the roof so as to enlarge the bedroom.Pre-application advice from Council has been encouraging.
Just wondering how much would the project cost,considering roof work,raising the wall on three sides of the room and adding two windows onto newly constructed wall.
Property is in Newbury,Berks

We have just had our roof replaced -but have been told by the roofers that this does not include replacing the coping stones on the back addition. We obviously missed this in the quote, which referred to ridge tiles and we misunderstood.

The coping stones do look unsightly but we've been quoted £1200 plus vat by the roofers to add this on, which seems a bit steep. Should we stick with what we've got or get the extra work done? I'm worried that not getting it done might invalidate any guarantee if we subsequently experience any water ingress.

We have a chalet style 1950s Scottish house with the second floor rooms contained within the roof space (not a loft conversion). There is a loft space above the rooms but also small loft spaces in the eaves on either side of the upstairs rooms accessed through small doors in the bedroom walls.

We want to insulate these spaces but are not sure what type of ventillation to install in them to prevent damp. The roof is constructed of wooden boards overlaid by felt then tiles. Each eaves space is only on one side of the house and not connected with loft space above to allow circulation of air. If we install tile vents, we presume there will not be the means for the air to circulate in these areas?

A further factor is that the soffits are made of concrete and therefore it is not possible to vent through these.

Any suggestions?

Hi,

2 years ago I had some works done on the roof, moss removed, sprayed and painted. The builders did not point the ridge tiles properly and this caused some water leaks into the attic. The roof has been damp and leaking in places for a while. I had the roof sprayed for woodworm and at this time we found two large mushrooms growing out of the sarking, they appeared very new, probably a couple of months growth. I know that the woodworm spray will hold back the dry rot too.

My question is this..... It is now nearly November. I'm planning on taking off the ridge tiles and doing a bit of investigation underneath and see how bad the rot is. Strip back some of the tiles and check also. I was thinking it best to remove the old velux and strip back there too and then remove the velux and just baton and tile over it. The tiles are a bit worn as been up since the 1960's.

If I get it wind and watertight for the winter and replacesome of the rotten sarking, will this put a stop to the dry rot? I will treat the timbers with the dry rot treatment I have. My biggest concern is the dry rot spreading into the walls as this will be a nightmare. So I'm thinking on getting it wind and water tight for the winter and then replacing all the sarking and tile batons and also putting new tiles on come the spring/summer next year. Will this way of doing it suffice or do I run the risk of major damage if the dry rot still spreads?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers! :)

property is a mid terrace our roof is higher than the neighbors and slightly over hangs our gable, the cement fillet on their roof and our gable wall is breaking away who is responsible for the repair i have pictures of problem

Garage conversion. Roof has been overhauled, but still leaks in two places:
Below and to the right of a Velux, and where the roof joins the original brickwork at the front...above where the garage door used to be. It is now a window above a low wall-above which is the original brick work...leaks from the top corner...neighbour's side...into the room itself.