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164 Questions: Insulation
I am about to get my loft insulated to the new standards as there is currently no insulation on the loft flooring/ceiling. However the roof of the loft has insulated felting. The insulation is attached to the felting and is approx. 1/2 inch thick.
Is this going to cause a problem? Will the loft be too insulated? Some people say I should take it off (which don't fancy doing as it is a massive task!) but others say to leave it as attached to the roof felting and wont make any difference/benefit? Any guidance greatly appreciated!
- Yrob459 20th Oct, 2013 Insulation
moved into a house not so long back that was built in the 1970's possibly and we can hear our neighbours banging every single door or cupboard door every time. i need help with insulating the party walls!!!
- Yktk3 27th May, 2013 Insulation
Is it possible to fill a cavity wall if you live in a flat? We are moving to a ground floor flat in a small block of nine apartments. Flat is double glazed but as we have to have electric central heating we want to insulate as much as possible to help keep the running costs down. Survey says outside walls are of traditional brick cavity design.
- Ymrs_k_31 22nd May, 2013 Insulation
I'm getting a lot of noise coming through my chimney Breast from my neighbour. If I filled the 1st floor chimney breast with insulation, could I then block off the air vent in the bedroom and put one in the loft instead?
- Ylennarda 6th Jun, 2012 Insulation
I've got 2 questions about Rockwool / Acoustic Mineral Wool (AMW) and soundproofing my flat.
I've got a ground floor Victorian semi-detached maisonette and I'm looking to install some soundproofing above my ceiling boards. The upstairs flat has their floorboards laid directly on the timber joists, so I know that I'm not going to get rid of the sound completely.
I would like to use Rockwool flexi 1200x400 as the joists are roughly 400mm apart, and these slabs would fit into the cavity. I have done the measurements and I know that I need 64 slabs in total for my bedroom and lounge.
1) My first question is about what thickness of slab I should get. I realise that if money were no objection I would go for the 100mm / 140mm slabs; but that is sadly not the case. I want to know if there's a very big difference between the 50mm and 60mm slabs in terms of sound dampening.
2) Does anyone know where I can get these size slabs from at a reasonable (i.e. lowest) price from? I've noticed that the size that I want isn't readily available, but that a lot of suppliers only stock the 600mm wide slabs, which would mean a whole lot of cutting to size and therefore a LOT of waste.
Thanks, in anticipation of many good, helpful answers :)
- Ycleverlittlebee 26th Apr, 2012 Insulation
We moved into our Victorian terrace six months ago, and our new neighbours just moved in and are causing us some issues with sound. Like us, they have a toddler, but the Walls seem to be very thin as me and my husband are woken up every night by their child crying. We can also hear them walking about on their wooden floors and also talking sometimes. They have another child due and we can't stand the thought of endless sleepless nights.
What steps could we take to soundproof our bedroom wall? Dont mind paying.
- Ymunken 30th Mar, 2012 Insulation
See previous question and answers, if needed.
I have a disused chimney and fireplace in my lounge. The fireplace has been wallpapered and a grill installed in the bottom of the chimney in the fireplace to prevent damp etc. I have reason to believe rain guards have been installed on the pots on the roof.
I am looking at putting in an access hole in the chimney breast for cables from an LED TV which I am going to hang there. The hole will be big enough to accept the size of power plugs and connectors, such as USB, HDMI, Composite, but small enough to avoid the hole being too big. What I would like to do is put in the hole, or cover the hole, with some sort of cover, rubber maybe, or bristles, that will allow access of the cables through the breast but at the same time prevent or reduce wind noise and air flow by creating a seal around the cables. Does that make sense? I hope that I have explained what I am after clearly! Anyway, if you could give me any advice or ideas, I would really appreciate it.
I would like to thank B J D BUILDING/ROOFING and Ian Dawson Builder for their answers to my last question, I really appreciate it guys. I did try to give feedback but could not see how or where to do that.
- Ywhitehawk 7th Feb, 2012 Insulation
i have a brick kitchen extension built in 1931. it's plasterboarded on battens and there is cold air coming down behind the plasterboard and entering the room at floor level and through the plug sockets. i have insulated the pitched roof with loose rockwell between the joists and then blanket on top. i've pushed insulation as far as i can into where the walls meet the rafters and even into the roof vents but for some reason when i open the inspection hatch there is a gale force cold wind spilling down into the kitchen. i can't get the kitchen temperature above 14 degrees even with the rad on full belt. one side of the pitch joins with the corresponding kitchen next door and air flows between the two. do i need to separate them, and if so, who do i need to get in to do the work - a general builder, a roofer, or an insulation specialist?
- Yjuliansims 19th Dec, 2011 Insulation
- Yjacquij 4th Dec, 2011 Insulation
If one part of our loft is poorly insulated between the bedroom and the loft area, could this be the cause of condensation on the slanted roof area on that side of the loft? We are trying to figure out the cause of the condensation - which is causing items to have thick mould on them.
- Yaldoc 30th Nov, 2011 Insulation
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