aAsk a Tradesman

We moved into our Victorian terrace six months ago, and our new neighbours just moved in and are causing us some issues with sound. Like us, they have a toddler, but the Walls seem to be very thin as me and my husband are woken up every night by their child crying. We can also hear them walking about on their wooden floors and also talking sometimes. They have another child due and we can't stand the thought of endless sleepless nights.

What steps could we take to soundproof our bedroom wall? Dont mind paying.

See previous question and answers, if needed.

I have a disused chimney and fireplace in my lounge. The fireplace has been wallpapered and a grill installed in the bottom of the chimney in the fireplace to prevent damp etc. I have reason to believe rain guards have been installed on the pots on the roof.

I am looking at putting in an access hole in the chimney breast for cables from an LED TV which I am going to hang there. The hole will be big enough to accept the size of power plugs and connectors, such as USB, HDMI, Composite, but small enough to avoid the hole being too big. What I would like to do is put in the hole, or cover the hole, with some sort of cover, rubber maybe, or bristles, that will allow access of the cables through the breast but at the same time prevent or reduce wind noise and air flow by creating a seal around the cables. Does that make sense? I hope that I have explained what I am after clearly! Anyway, if you could give me any advice or ideas, I would really appreciate it.

I would like to thank B J D BUILDING/ROOFING and Ian Dawson Builder for their answers to my last question, I really appreciate it guys. I did try to give feedback but could not see how or where to do that.

i have a brick kitchen extension built in 1931. it's plasterboarded on battens and there is cold air coming down behind the plasterboard and entering the room at floor level and through the plug sockets. i have insulated the pitched roof with loose rockwell between the joists and then blanket on top. i've pushed insulation as far as i can into where the walls meet the rafters and even into the roof vents but for some reason when i open the inspection hatch there is a gale force cold wind spilling down into the kitchen. i can't get the kitchen temperature above 14 degrees even with the rad on full belt. one side of the pitch joins with the corresponding kitchen next door and air flows between the two. do i need to separate them, and if so, who do i need to get in to do the work - a general builder, a roofer, or an insulation specialist?

If one part of our loft is poorly insulated between the bedroom and the loft area, could this be the cause of condensation on the slanted roof area on that side of the loft? We are trying to figure out the cause of the condensation - which is causing items to have thick mould on them.

We have a loft conversion which was never insulated at the time (30+ years old). Is the only option to insulate under the floorboards to rip up, or are there any other possibilities? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Hi,

I live in a 1930's bungalow which is on the main road of a village. its not a majorly busy road, but when cars zoom past the vibrations can be very noisy, especially at night.

What is the best way to cut down on this noise? I already have double glazing fitted.

Id also like to avoid secondary glazing if I can.

Will cavity wall insulation help in this situation - Im not keen on getting that done, but will do if it will help out.

Or should I strap out the traffic facing wall and fit insulation boards and resillient bars instead? Will this cause any damp behind the insulation boards? What type/thickness of insulation board should I use?

Thanks

Paul

This studio has rockwool insulation in the walls and roof but the floor is not insulated and is very cold. What would be the best material to use. The floor is made of chipboard. We would like to put laminated flooring on top of the insulation. Can anyone tell me what we should use to get best results?
Many thanks

I have a very cold room with 2 external walls. I am not able to do cavity wall insulation. The roof is half flat without insulation and half insulated and I did floor insulation. I have got double glazing. I am thinking to use Wallrock Thermal Liner or Red Label Insulating Lining Paper but I am wondering if those papers really works. If not any ideas would be most welcome. Please advice! Thanks

i need to insulate my roof, but want to keep the boarded floor free for storage, i can see the slate and mortor from inside, and its quite windy. i was going to block it all up but was told id get damp and mould due to lack of air flow ? ive heard about leaving a gap but is this between the slate or the joists? i dont want anything too thick as there is not much head room as it it. how can i get round these problems ? thank you
regards neil