Ask a Tradesman
Our expert electricians have kindly agreed to share their wisdom on such topics as indoor and outdoor lighting, certifications and qualifications, rewiring, appliance fitting, electric showers, kitchen installations, extensions, extractor fans and much more.
Answered your question? You can find a reliable and local Electrician in your area today!
1,825 Electrical questions
I have recently started to renovate the kitchen and have a new range cooker. The cable that supplied the old cooker is a 2.5mm^2 which I assume to be 30A. I know that cookers should have a 6mm^2 cable. However after speaking to hotpoint they said maximum load would be 22.3A, from this it seems that the current cable would be capable of the full load.
Can someone give advice on if the current cable is OK? As replacing the cable would be a pain in the **** as the walls have just been replastered.
The cooker is a hotpoint EG902GX
Thanks for all of the responses. I am going to get the cable replaced with some 6mm or 10mm. My logic is 6mm will be ok for now but should the wife want to have an all electric range in the future then 10mm would seem sensible.
Also the circuit is protected by MCB and RCD from a Dual RCD CU. There are also two other on the RCD, the kitchen ring and downstairs lights.
A quick question about the Diversity Factor. I can understand how this would work if the cooker was full electric ie 2 ovens, warming drawer, 4 rings + socket. Then I can see how you would not assume full load.
How does this work when there is only a double oven, as I would assume that there will be times, such as when you turn both on to heat up they will be drawing maximum current? Is this correct or am I missing a trick.
I have had a complete rewire of my bungalow. I now have the plasterers in and i have been told that no conduit has been used to protect the cables in the walls (the channels have been bonded with plaster). Is this sufficient / legal? Thanks
To add an extra light to a room, I assume you will need to chisel out a channel from the existing light switch in order to lay the extra switch cable.. Is there an easy way to do this without damaging the existing switch cable or is it best to just assume you're going to damage it and replace it?
I am currently modernising a 1904 3 bedroom terrace property in South West London. The last time any major changes to wiring were made would have been 40 years ago.
I am having most walls and ceilings replastered and floors repaired as necessary (only loose floorboards). I need to reposition tone boiler and one radiator and install a new kitchen which will mean relocating the cooker to the opposite wall and the addition of an extractor hood.
I have been given a quote which seems quite high given that all of the structural work (chasing etc) associated with a re-wire would be done in parallel and the price for the consumer board installation has also been given separately. Surely this is the main beast for a total re-wire. I am also being quoted separately for existing sockets, isn't it the additional sockets that would be extra? Is security lighting and interlinked smoke alarms not also included?
I would be looking at two security lights (one back and one front), two interlinked smoke alarms, 10 downlighters for the kitchen, four wall lights and 12 additional double sockets and 6 TV/SAT/Aerial and 5 additional telephone sockets.
Grateful for some advice as to what total re-wire actually means and an estimate of what one would realistically expect to pay an electrician for the re-wiring element of the modernisation.
Many thanks to everyone who took the time to reply; all very helpful.
My intent was always to get it ispected by a qualified electrician, anyway, but it was very useful to understand for non-electrical preparation.
My consumer unit does have RCD, and I have
had a new boiler installed relatively
recently. However, presumably it would
not do any harm to have additional
cross-bonding in the bathroom, anyway ?
Many thanks again.
How do you wire a intermediate switch iv got 3 door ways 2 enter a room, all with I switch at each door way all to operate the same light.
I'm due to move in to a new build flat at the end of August, they were meant to be wired up for electric cookers, but there is no hard wiring point just a double socket where cooker goes, although there is a red cooker on & off switch. Builder has told me just to put a plug on it, but is this safe? If anyone can help it would be much appreciated, thanks.
thanks for all your help guys at least now i can get it sorted without being fobbed off :)
2 years ago I had a new bathroom fitted and the fitters also replaced my electric shower
Since then I have discovered that my shower has no separate box or fuse and it occasionally trips my oven
I have found out that the bathroom fitters put the shower unit up and did not check the cables etc they just used what was already there. The bathroom company supplied to Cerys or documents to say this was done by a qualified electrician. Could someone clarify the requirements before I speak with the bathroom fitters
I wonder if someone can help - I've just had a new kitchen put in and nearing completion. New cooker, new hob and cooker hood to replace older derelicts. Same ring main. I have also had LED lights to replace an old florescent light in the ceiling. I have added additional double sockets to the wall on the ring mains.
My question is, with the recent changes in April this year in mind - do I need any Part-P certification for this? I understand now that the kitchen is no longer a 'special location' room the work will not require notification. Or would a Electrical Installation Certificate from the sparky suffice?