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1,931 Electrical questions
I have just had my house rewired and the electrician has re-used existing electrical cables / wires is this normal practice?
The 're-used' cables are on an external wall light, which I can see has not been moved or replaced with the one we discussed. The other area is the cooker socket which has the cable surface mounted in a conduit box on the wall feeding from floor to box; I thought this cable had to be 'in the wall' with a feed from ceiling downwards.
Any thoughts / comments?
my house is very damp, humid and suffers from mould and condensation.
We've been advised by a damp expert to get a new extractor fan for our bathroom (among other things). At present we have a Manrose humidistat extractor fan, that apparently isn't very much use.
I'd be really grateful for some advice on the best type of extractor fan to buy to get rid of condensation and damp air.
Thanks in advance.
I have had a complete rewire of my bungalow. I now have the plasterers in and i have been told that no conduit has been used to protect the cables in the walls (the channels have been bonded with plaster). Is this sufficient / legal? Thanks
To add an extra light to a room, I assume you will need to chisel out a channel from the existing light switch in order to lay the extra switch cable.. Is there an easy way to do this without damaging the existing switch cable or is it best to just assume you're going to damage it and replace it?
My electician has rewired the house and installed a 4.2kW oven (with a separate gas hob). The oven radial uses a 2.5mm wire with a 20 amp fuse, and the length of the wire from the consumer unit to the oven is about 4m. My builder has told me that the 2.5mm wire is unsafe, but my electrician insists it's okay because the oven has no hob. Can anyone confirm whether the 2.5mm wire is safe and compliant with the regulations?
Thanks all, much appreciated.
I have been reading (and learning) from the forum but I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to electricity so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I want to run power from my house to my shed and to keep costs down, I intend to do the labour part myself - run the cable (lift the floor in several places indoors and bury under slabs outside) and then get in an electrician in to connect everything up at both ends)
My existing consumer unit (which has an RCD as the main switch) has a spare 20A mcb which could be used. The distance from this unit to my shed is about 20 metres although by the time the cable goes round a few bends, it will probably be a cable lenght nearer 23 or 24 metres.
Is a 4mm sq cable of sufficient capacity for my requirements ie. a couple of power points and lighting?
Can I use normal cable under the floor indoors and then join it to armoured cable (junction box) just before taking it outside?
Can the electrician run the lighting from what I think is called a fused spur or do I have to buy another small consumer unit for the shed? If the latter, should I get one with a 6amp and 20amp mcb?
Is a 20 amp mcb the highest I can go with 4mm cable?
Thanks very much for any help.
Many thanks to everyone who took the time to reply; all very helpful.
My intent was always to get it ispected by a qualified electrician, anyway, but it was very useful to understand for non-electrical preparation.
My consumer unit does have RCD, and I have
had a new boiler installed relatively
recently. However, presumably it would
not do any harm to have additional
cross-bonding in the bathroom, anyway ?
Many thanks again.
Would like to know a guide price as to how much it would cost for an electrician to fit a smoke alarm in a domestic property.
The property is a two bedroom flat on one floor. The fuse board is located in the hall by the door. I would imagine the best place for the smoke alarm to be the hall (off the hall are two bedrooms, a bathroom, and a living room which leads onto the kitchen). I would prefer if all cables were hidden.
I wonder if someone can help - I've just had a new kitchen put in and nearing completion. New cooker, new hob and cooker hood to replace older derelicts. Same ring main. I have also had LED lights to replace an old florescent light in the ceiling. I have added additional double sockets to the wall on the ring mains.
My question is, with the recent changes in April this year in mind - do I need any Part-P certification for this? I understand now that the kitchen is no longer a 'special location' room the work will not require notification. Or would a Electrical Installation Certificate from the sparky suffice?