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1131 Questions: Electrical
I have recently started to renovate the kitchen and have a new range cooker. The cable that supplied the old cooker is a 2.5mm^2 which I assume to be 30A. I know that cookers should have a 6mm^2 cable. However after speaking to hotpoint they said maximum load would be 22.3A, from this it seems that the current cable would be capable of the full load.
Can someone give advice on if the current cable is OK? As replacing the cable would be a pain in the **** as the walls have just been replastered.
The cooker is a hotpoint EG902GX
Thanks for all of the responses. I am going to get the cable replaced with some 6mm or 10mm. My logic is 6mm will be ok for now but should the wife want to have an all electric range in the future then 10mm would seem sensible.
Also the circuit is protected by MCB and RCD from a Dual RCD CU. There are also two other on the RCD, the kitchen ring and downstairs lights.
A quick question about the Diversity Factor. I can understand how this would work if the cooker was full electric ie 2 ovens, warming drawer, 4 rings + socket. Then I can see how you would not assume full load.
How does this work when there is only a double oven, as I would assume that there will be times, such as when you turn both on to heat up they will be drawing maximum current? Is this correct or am I missing a trick.
- Yreece_92 6th Oct, 2011 Electrical
We have just bought a house,and the exsisting Electric meter+Fusebox are right in the Lounge,which is looking like an eye sore,We are keeing it there and making a box as last option,its hanging on the inside of the boundary wall,My question is have we got the option of Ripping everything from its current location and putting in at the same postion but ouside the wall,In a water proof box?I have seen these boxes online and they are not very expesive either,there is no distance involved,Just putting outside.
Can a qualified electrician do it?or i need to get the supplier involved,I have heard they charge a lot,Should I use it as bargain tool with diffrent Supplier if they try to charge me ?
There is NO DIGGING or extending the cable required,just wants it to be from inside of the wall to outside of the wall,exactly behind the exsisting meter,just on the otherside of the wall
- Yrakesh_82 31st Dec, 2011 Electrical
I have just had my downlights installed in my living room on a 4 gang dimmer switch with 4 low volts lights on each switch, but the switch buzzes a lot when ever any of the lights is switched on. Is there anything that can be done to stop the buzzing. The switch was bought in screw fix (LAP 250W Dimmer)
- Yanita79 17th Nov, 2011 Electrical
My electrician has earthed our property by means of sticking a long metal rod in one of the flower beds in the garden. Is this the right and safest thing to do?
Thanks to all those who have responded thus far...appreciate your reassurance and yes the electrician has advised that he is certified.....
Thanks electrical Safety Services!! this is exactly what he has done... I was thinking about it being accidently damaged which is why I posed the question.. The job is not finished yet and he has to come back at second fix so I do not have a certificate yet. I will point this out to him and see what happens. Thx again for your sound advice..
- Ysuperdry 29th Oct, 2011 Electrical
I am in the process of applying to get overhead cables moved, and the company have asked me to supply my 'Load details - breakdown in KVA'
Can anybody advise me how I find this out please?
- Ysjbu 14th May, 2011 Electrical
Our electrician re-wired the whole flat, gave us an Electrical Installation Certificate and a Schedule of Circuit Details for the Installation, but the Council Inspector tells us that he hasn't registered the part P certificate. We have tried for a month to contact our electrician but he has disappeared.
What can we do now to get the part P certificate? And how is it different from the Electrical Installation Certificate?
Many thanks for your help!
- Ypoblico 5th Dec, 2011 Electrical
I have just had my consumer unit replaced. The cooker circuit has a 40A mini circuit breaker and 6mm cable (I think). Can I install a Stoves SEH600I induction hob and 2.5KW oven without overloading the circuit? I chose this hob because it is designed to plug into a 13A wall socket (reasoning that it should not draw any more than that when connected to the cooker circuit).
http://www.stoves.co.uk/Built-in-Hobs/Induction/SEH600i13AMP. I will be getting an electritican in to do the work. Thanks.
- Yredland_46 15th Oct, 2011 Electrical
requirements which create work. Why do many workers have the freedom to charge what they wish to do work. Should we not expect a standard scale of
costs for each job? Why do some tradesman feel they can charge £100.00 per hour for
their work. Most people with a qualification such as a University degree are barely
paid £25.00 per hour.
- Ymr_downer 25th Mar, 2011 Electrical
I have bought a flat that has electric heaters for each room, most have thermostats but none have timers. Each are wired into a wall switch.
What's the best way to add timer functions to this system, can you add a timer switch into the consumer unit or is it better to have separate timers for each heater?
Edit. They are wall mounted panel heaters
- Yjoshlee 4th Oct, 2012 Electrical
We bought a house a few months back with 3 low voltage fire protection downlights in the bathroom ceiling. One was already not working when we moved in, one went a couple of weeks later after winking and waning a lot. The third has just stopped working. We have no idea how to change these. The bulb seems entirely encased in the light fitting. The front bit doesn't seem to detach. Would we actually need an electrician to change these bulbs? (seems ridiculous!) I have attached a photo which I hope shows the kind of lights they are. Any help appreciated.
- Ypmb1 18th Dec, 2011 Electrical
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