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951 Questions: Damp Proofing
For a while now, my hallway has become very wet whenever it rains. This affects both sides of the doorway and the damp can go approx half a meter high. A builder says it was caused by a prolonged period of heavy rain last year (apparently the same has happened with other houses in the area). He gave it damp proof injections (cream) but this has failed.
My concern is that the house is an 1880's sandstone house and I have since discovered through internet research that old houses should not have damp proof courses or use waterproof plaster as this can exacerbate the issue. I'm yet to discover what the cure is though!
Any help would be much appreciated as I don't want to keep throwing money away or make the issue worse.
- Yzyggi 20th Oct, 2013 Damp Proofing
I rent out a 1930's 3 bedroom semi in BD19 postcode and I'm looking for a solution for a damp problem probably caused by poor ventilation. Please see below:
Mold patches / spores around the main bedroom window where the ceiling meets the wall. Also in a cupboard where an old storage tank used to be located (mold spores on the ceiling) with a permanent foisty smell generally throughout the room.
Wet wall underneath the window, condensation is the expected cause, but another reason may exist as it gets very wet.
I will be looking at installing some trickle vents to reduce / eliminate the condensation, however I suspect that the penetrating damp is being caused by either poor pointing and or problems with the fascia, soffit and / or gutter.
If anyone can provide a solution it would be appreciated!
- Yatthompson82 16th Oct, 2013 Damp Proofing
The suspended timber floor in the living room seems to have acquired a damp problem. I noticed recently that the joists are damp where they meet the walls. They are damp all along both walls (internal walls, one is party wall to neighbour and other is adjoining hall and kitchen, which have a solid floor.)
I had a conservatory fitted 2 years ago (with concrete floor), and to continue the original ventilation 2, 65mm pipes have been used to duct air to the subfloor. Unfortunately it seems as though there is some blockage to the vents from inside by way of the damp membrane or insulation product, which the conservatory company have said they will rectify.
I am wondering if this problem alone could have caused my joists to be wet?
I have read that building control recommend at least a 100mm pipe per vent and although within permitted build and not requiring building regs, should they have used 100mm pipe anyway?
I was considering replacing the 2 air vents at the front of the house as the old ones are a little delapidated although are bringing in air quite well, would adding a third vent to the front of the property serve any purpose? (would this compensate for reduced ventilation to the rear?)
Thank you in advance for any answers.
- Yjenbob38 12th Oct, 2013 Damp Proofing
I'm about to move into a property, my RICS surveyor indicated high damp readings in most exterior facing walls. Some of the plaster seems to have flaked off or appears to be crumbling.
It is 1900 cottage with 'no obvious DPC' according to his report.
Naturally I'm thinking to hack out the plaster, chemical injection DPS, replaster - HOWEVER: the property has never had central heating, has poor insulation and has been heated with mains Gas Fires in all rooms.
1) Could this be the cause of dampness? - in which case:
2) Should I just sand down the plaster, install CH and see what happens? or
3) look at DPC, even though I'm reading a lot about cowboys and Damp Proof being a myth...?
Help - I'm confused. Thanks!
- Yadamsurrey 19th Aug, 2013 Damp Proofing
I wonder if anyone can help please. We had our kitchen plastered 6 years ago, there was a patch by a small window which took much longer to dry than the other walls, eventually it dried and as advised by our plasterer, we used a base coat of 1/2 water 1/2 emulsion and then two coats of kitchen/bathroom paint.
About 2 years later an area by the window started to bubble, we sanded it down, applied damp proof paint and then kitchen/bathroom paint and this seemed to solve the problem.
However about 6 months ago the same thing happened but it affected a larger area, once again we sanded the area, applied damp proof paint but mistakenly applied as a top coat ordinary matt paint. The paint we used is a very light colour and the affected area never seems to dry.
In the meantime we have had the exterior of our house painted and all cracks filled. Near the affected area there is a small extension housing a toilet and a back door into the garden. When the painter was painting the outside of our house, he mentioned that there were no lead flashings on the roof and he had sealed the roof where the tiles meet the apex with sealant.
We have pulled up the floor boards on the upper floor to see if there are any pipes leaking which could cause the damp patch in the kitchen but there appears to be nothing leaking. Can anyone help please. Thank you in advance.
- Yjan_pearson 19th Jul, 2013 Damp Proofing
We have done a damp proof course without success but we have a new plaster. Can we do a damp proof course again without removing the plaster? And which way of damp proofing should we use?
- Ycharlyne 25th Jun, 2013 Damp Proofing
We're looking into renting a 3 bedroom, 2 storey, carpeted house that has been vacant for a month. The entire property smells strongly of damp. There are fine cracks in the ceilings/paint, black spots and ebbing patches on walls, ebbed up linoleum flooring in the kitchen, dark patches on walls and ceilings, and condensation on the windows. The landlord says they would have someone come apply damp proof to a 2nd floor corner that has damp, but that little more than paint is needed. What repairs would actually need to be done to the property to rid it of the damp signs/smells?
Edited: There's an extraction fan in the bathroom, but no fan in the kitchen... also there are 4 chimney breasts that have been blocked off, but no vents. Also, the house is set into a hillside, so the back garden is tiered above the level of the ground floor of the house...
- Ybalamire 21st Jun, 2013 Damp Proofing
Hi. My son has just bought a house, a 1930's semi, and damp meter recordings showed some damp present. The only visible signs of damp are some peeling of wallpaper and signs of mould extending a few inches at most above the skirting board along the party wall with their neighbour. I am not sure if this is historical as it does not feel damp, or particularly cold even, to the touch, and interestingly, the cupboard on this wall has no signs of damp in it at all. There is no smell that we have noticed and the skirting boards look fine. I do not want them to get a free survey as I know these firms sometimes recommend damp course insertion etc afterwards when this is not necessarily the answer. Of course, they want to start off on the right foot with the maintenance of their property but want to spend their money wisely. Also, I am wondering what a survey would involve as they have laminate floors, the lifting of which would of course be a problem. Advice please!
- Yellie_55 30th May, 2013 Damp Proofing
Due to a recurring leak which has now been fixed i decided to have my walls damp proofed. They took the wall back to the brick work and have applied a render coat of washed sand and cement to a wood float and then applied a membrane of Triton TT55 or something similar. They are going to plaster over it but before i speak to them about it and in case they try to baffle me with science i wanted to ask for some advice. they have left an area of brick exposed in the top right corner near the ceiling, it hasn't been covered with any thing. The brick is still showing and looks like its crumbling. Now if they just re plaster over it, is there a chance the damp can come back through. I am unsure as to why they would damp proof the rest of the wall and not that section. Its part of that section which was most affected by the leak. Can anyone help? ps it comes with a 10 year guarantee.
- Yjuliao 17th Apr, 2013 Damp Proofing
i think my driveway may be causing damp. How can i tell if the damp course is bridged? Its edwardian with skirt/plith at bottom of wall. Looks like the ground has been raised and a dpm laid uner the crazy paving and right up to the skirt/plinth. Is it possible to deal with this without taking the whole drive up? Did think about lowering the ground around the perimiter of the house but might end up with trench like and fill up with water. Not sure where i go with this - any help welcom.
- Yrenogirl 7th Apr, 2013 Damp Proofing
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