aAsk a Tradesman

I live in a 1930's semi detatched home. A couple of years ago, we had the house re-insulated, including cavity wall and in the loft.

Since then, we have had issues with condensation on the windows, between the double glazing and small black moud growing in several places in the house...mainly in my son's bedroom. We removed the mould with diluted bleach and painted over it with a special paint. It seems to be coming back though.
My son has a skin condition which seems to worsen when he comes home from university, so it is essential that this is sorted out quickly.

We were told by the insulators that we would need to have the existing vents opened or some fitted perhaps, but we never got round to it. Before having the insulation done, we hardly had any condensation and NO mould whatsoever. This suggests that it is definitely a ventilation problem, but I'm not really sure about what the exact solution is, and would greatly appreciate some help/advice.

Hi everyone,
I am looking to purchase a bungalow which has a lot of potential. However, the main issue is it had a burst pipe in the ceiling, the plaster has collapsed and the current owners have just abandoned it. The burst pipe has been fixed, but the problem now is that ALL the interior walls have damp and black mould patches. This is also spreading as the property has not been dealt with and has been vacant for some time.
Any advice and help would be more than welcome. Or if you think I am out of my mind to buy this house, please tell me.
Thanks

The walls look and feel damp and at times appear to be 'breathing' water (apologies for description but this is closest to what I see!). I have used bathroom paint and also applied a damp proofing coat before repainting to no avail. I had a new more powerful extractor fitted (ceiling mounted where the previous one was) again to no avail. Have tried leaving the window on the vented setting but still no difference. The walls now often also appear to have a white film in places as well as the constant black mould.

Many thanks to those who replied. So much for thinking I was doing the right thing with the paint!!! I will try out both your answers - thanks again.

The house I am moving in to currently has timber ground floor with concrete kitchen floor. The kitchen floor has damp. I've been told that to rectify this, the floor should be excavated and then relaid with a damp proof membrane. Additionally the whole ground floor timber is rotten and surveyor said instead of renewing all the timber it's probably best to make it into solid floor to match the kitchen and reduce future damp problems.
Would this be realistic and costly for a 2 reception room semi?

thank you so much everyone for there prompt and helpful advice.some more details on this, it is a basement flat and a non cavity outside wall I am having problems with.in answer to some of the questions and suggestions posted I have, over the last 15 years had various things attempted, including a foil backed plaster board ( which in my opinion has made it ten times worse.)
The ventilation is defiantly an issue but as a basement flat it is not practical to leave window open.air bricks and extractor fans sound like a good start and cheaper then a false wall.the only reason I thought a false wall might work is because I thought it could then be insulated??
I have four lovely builders from this site to come and take a look next week, so hopefully they will all come up with a sensible suggestion.I will let you know.
thank you all again for your help, what a fab site this is.

Having been in the property for some 6 months now, we have been noticing over time that there ARE damp patches and mould appearing on some walls, around windows and on the concrete floors. Can anyone please give me some advice as to where to start in rectifying some of these issues?

We have recently got our kitchen wall plastered by the builder.
It seems that he just plastered whole kitchen without curing the possible damp.
It's been 2months since plaster was applied, but bottom parts of a kitchen wall is still wet.
I asked him to solve the problem, and he said he'll drill holes on the wet wall and put chemical. Is it the best solution?
I am wondering if I should get damp specialist or not.

No obvious cause of flood but this could explain slow drying of floor. As well as lowering external level should the foundations be underpinned?