TJW BUILDING MAINTENANCE

sounds like every one can do DIY `s and when it all go`es wrong they blame the product they are useing or I was told it would be ok , the damage done in time using legs or 3x2 timber over your old ciling joist its all weight on top of your ceilings that the old joist are not designed for ,they are only to hold your ceiling up if any one carries out work like this in 12 or so months if you are lucky you will be replacing your ceilings and all the insulation it may seem like a load of money to do it right but it will cost a lot more in the end place a add on here and ask for a loft conversion expert not a DIY`er

beleave it or not if you get false teeth cleaners in a tube steradent and put 3 in befor you go to bed works wounders and it does not damage any seails ,costic soda will , you can get a new toilet from B&Q FOR ABOUT £70

holbex pritty much said it all but first make sure your roof is water tight no point in doing any work inside the property if there is rain getting in and the guttering is driping down your walls once you know your roof is sound and the guttering and R W pipes are ok start on the inside

Holland damp proofing can not work on a 9 inch wall all you are doing is fitting air bricks there is nothing stoping rising damp from rising
The so called Holland damp proofing system (sometimes referred to as the Schrijver system ) is yet another snake oil system that is pushed by very slick sales presentation in the UK as being the cure-all for damp. Both these companies have been investigated several times by the Advertising Standards Authority, and asked to remove or amend their advertising claims. The ASA stated in 2002 that 'the advertisers had proved neither that the Schrijver System stopped rising damp, nor that it reduced the moisture content caused by penetrating damp, condensation and mould'

There seem to be various versions of it - each as bad as the other. Professional videos are shown of chocolate box cottages with wallpaper peeling off the walls (in classic condensation patterns that could be cured by opening windows!). They claim to have won prizes for their system.. One was from a Dutch 'infotainment' tv show called National Suggestion Box where according to Jef Howell, the winning 'invention' was voted for by a studio jury!!

It is based on a system of 'Knapen Tubes' developed as early as 1908, and never shown scientifically to work.There are a few variations on it - all of them involving putting bricks or porous pots of some sort into the wall.

The system uses horrible, unsightly bricks or porous tubes which are drilled into the walls all around the house which supposedly allow moisture to escape from the walls. Unsurprisingly, most, if not all of the photos and films they'll show you are of houses which are covered in thick coats of cement render. Of course the wall is sopping wet - and anything that breaks the render will release water - far simpler just to take the render off!!

I have been in the building for over 44 years a lot of rising damp is mostley because the damp course as been bridged either from the out side or the inside or the inside walls have been plastered and not used the right stuff to carry the job out in most cases builders have used the cheap option ,and if the damp is more then one meter high it is not rising damp open a window
www.tjwbuildingmaintenance.co.uk

Oh... and did I say that cement is not porous? That it traps water? So whenever I do a survey and find these stupid blocks drilled into a sopping wet wall - they are fixed in place with... you guessed it... cement - so the wall could never breathe into them anyway cos the damn things are surrounded by cement.
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report them to Trading Standards. Their system is NOT approved for use in the UK - The BRE has not tested and approved it, and there is a much easier and cheaper way to sort the problems out that they show on the various websites that use this ridiculous system - open a window, and follow the instructions on the site for reducing condensation and cement trapped moisture.

it sounds like air but you best ask your landlord when it last had a gas safty checked it should by law be every year Thomas

you lift the tile to fix a bracket the tile goes back in place you carry this on untill you have fitted all the brackets you then bolt the panels to the bracket job done from the outside then its fitting inside

most extensons depend on the emount of ground work ie drainage depth of footing the typ of bricks flat roof or piched all in all ball park would be around 18k to 25k depending on fitting

1 do you have a real fire ? is it burning when smoking .
if the anser is yes you need to have your chimnely swept
or change your fuel
if the anser is no to the first
you need to get it checked out asp

if it is in liverpool it would be about £500 to £650

I f he gave you a price for fully fitting your kitchen ,and you was happy with the kitchen there is no law that I can think of but the builder for good will should say the kitchen skip and all fittings comes to ...x... and the labour was ..y ..
All building work no matter how small all litle things should be sorted before the work starts

It all depends if the roof that you need to raise is to the front of the property or the side or to the rear ,and the perlings in your roof spiral stairs may be the less expensive if the ceiling in the bed room slope down you can bet it is the roof joist
if you can give more info I would beable to help you more ,dormers to the front of your property need planing even if you do not have a window there you dont need planing to the rear of the property but no matter if you are altering the pich of any roof you will need building regs and if it is more than 45% of the side of the roof you are removing to rase it has to be insulatad by law from october 2010 hope this is of help to you

I dont know were you live but most trades men in Liverpool only charge £20 to £40 an hour and all the time people will pay £100 an houre there will always be companies who will charge that money and more I have a full list of work we carry out and every one is charge the same if thay are rich or poor and I am happy to give any one a copy of the list it would give people an idear how much things cost I may put it on my web site when I can fine time to do it
regards to your fuse board the regs for electric change all the time and if your fuse board is older than 10 years old its best to change it for your safty as old consumer units do dot have a cut off if anything goes wrong will start a fire ,heath and safty as gone a bit far after all its common sense but to cover every one the home owner and the builder doing the work hope this is of help to you many thanks Thomas

I agree with substucture its not just a question of digging a trench putting in some new pipe work and hope it works you will need 2 chambers and caclulate the falls you would be looking more on the lines of £2500 £3500 which will have to be passed by thames water and your nabours if you are conected to them a double sealed cover will save you loads of time and money you can get them that take tiles or wood flooring your builder sould beable to make it look as it was not there for all of around £250 its saving you a lot

most open plane stairs the treads go under each other first thing to do is get a set square if you dont have one you can get them from most D I Y stores
16 inch one will be fine ,from under the stairs slide the long side of the set sq on top of the treads with the set sq facing up just like stairs the part that is standing up will hit the tread above the one you have it rested on if there is enough tread space for your foot normaly 10 inches you dont need to change your stairs you can fit the rises easy but if there is not enough foot room you will need a new stair case a sright flight will cost around £300 for a mdf and pine set hope this is of help

if you look on planing were you live if there are any extension in your street like what you are looking to have done if they are new planes they will still comply with building regs and you can down load a copy just check the sizes are the same as your property then you will have somthing to go on you can also use them planes ,but any steel will need steel calcs doing a must for building control hope this is of help to you

well if thay are double glazed doors thay can be heavy
but would not be too hard to remove
if thay are wood frames thay may go into the brick work at the top ( or head of the door ) and may even be holding your internal wall up best have it checked over if it is made of wood
and thare will also be some plastering to be carried out once thay are removed
but all can be carried out in a day

latex or bitchamen which ever you use you will also have to nail or screw the boards down if not thay will lift after time if you do not have a nail gun you can hire one for about £20 plus the nails
if you use screws countersink them and use a pece of board to plug the screw heads so thay can not be seen . if you dont fix them with nails or screws thay will lift beleave me

It all depends on the brick work for your scatch coat any bad brick work should be filled in or replaced and give it a good brush and wet it down with water before you aply upva a ton bag should cover 35s2 meters for the scratch coat and 42 for the top coat and a good spred will not have any wastage as it all go`s on the wall

The only thing you deed to look at if it is a listed building but even then it can be done if you have all your planing in place we did one in thornton in merseyside a few years ago. Many thanks Thomas,and good luck with your project

I am in Liverpool I have some new internal doors and a few other bits in my container never used you are more than welcome my email is tjpropmainser@aol.com and good luck