The Complete Kitchen and Bathroom Company

I have just had a conservatory makeover which included plastering walls and fitting skirting boards. The contractor has used pencil round boards. Internal joints have been simply butted-up (and not scribed) and external mitres don't fit perfectly. He is trying to tell me that it's perfectly normal to butt-up (even though it looks rubbish) and it is to be expected that external mitres are not flush. When I get round to decorating, apparently I should put caulk in the hole caused by butting-up and filler in the mitres. I want the boards stained not painted by the way. My view is that if the internal joint can't be scribed (too flimsy they say) then they should mitre (not square they say). Surely a decent carpenter can deal with walls that are not square and do an internal mitre at say 44 degrees instead of 45?

We are looking to have loft ladders fitted so the loft has easy access for myself and hubby as were getting on in years. Could anybody suggest a good loft ladder not too dear.

I wish to remove a stud wall separating 2 bedrooms on the first floor of our house. The wall runs parallel with the joists in the attic above, anhd there is not a wall directly below it on the ground floor.

I have removed the plasterboard on one wall and the frame appears to be all timber, and no different sized timber or other supports used used.

Could anyone please tell me if this indicates that the wall is definitely not load bearing, and can therefore be safely removed?

Thanks.

Thank you very much to all who answered. I have decided to err on the side of caution and get a second opinion from a surveyor, but from the advice given, it looks like it is not a supporting wall.

Thanks again,

Terry.

The job was priced at just under a £1000

I`ve bought a doors from Wickes which are heavy, 38.5kg I think. They are 35mm thick and I`m trying to hang on a new oak door liners. Which hinges do I need and how many?

Hi, our landlord has installed a new fire door which he had to do to comply with the regulation BS476, Part 22, 1987. He has used his regular builder to replace the old door. I noticed he has installed new thick door but fitted the existing door furniture i.e existing lock, letter box, hinges etc.. I read on internet that the fire doors should be with some specification like with intumescent fire and smoke strips, self closing hinges or fire proof door closer etc to make it comply with the regulation. Can the local builder who fitted the door give us certificate that the door is fire safe at existing condition? Can the builder now put intumescent fire and smoke strips, door closer, intumescent letter box on the new door and then certify that the door is fire proof according to the regulation BS476, Part 22, 1987? If he can certify then what he should include in his letter/certification?

Please give expert advise so we can decide either to replace existing new door or to upgrade the new door. Thanks

I'm looking to buy replacement kitchen doors from Kitchen Door Workshop.co.uk
http://www.kitchendoorworkshop.co.uk/
How much to measure and fit them please?

Hi,
We are looking at having a new kitchen and have thought about using Wickes (we have had a design from them) and also Tesco. We are aware that Tesco and Wickes use Marktwo group kitchens. Any comments on the quality of the kitchens/value for money? Tesco say on their website that they have a 25 year guarantee - do you reckon they will last that long? We are also looking for somebody to fit the kitchen once we have decided which way to go rather than using their fitters - aware that Tesco offer free dry fit - is anyone aware of any clauses to the terms and conditions ref guarantees etc., if we used a private fitter?
Thanks.